A man holding a Propex heater under a campervan
Build Guides

How To Install A Propex HS2211 Campervan Heater

Are you ready to install your Propex HS2211 campervan heater? Well, you’re definitely in the right place. Once you’ve installed your heater, you’ll be warm and cosy at the flick of a switch. So, no more worrying about Jack Frost invading your rolling home!

When we installed our heater, we used the Propex manual for support. However, we still had some queries and had to email them for clarification. From this experience, we can lead you through every step of your installation (from installing the heater to installing the heater’s gas) in our tried and tested 25 stage guide.

We’ll still refer to and quote from the manual when it’s important – download a copy here.

At this point, you must be wondering how on earth you can install a campervan heater and its gas in just 25 stages. Well, my friend, imagine each stage is a goal. We’ve broken each goal down into simple steps so you can achieve it.

And if that’s not enough, we’ve also bundled in a load of helpful hints, tips and tricks. Just look out for these icons:

Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


Either we’ve got some extra information to share with you, or we’ll let you know what we did when we installed our own heater.


Handy hints and nifty tips from Jolly, the DIY master.

Nemi guide

DIY novices unite! These are the things Nemi needed help with during our campervan heater install.

However, if you don’t need these helping hands, you can jump straight ahead to the next instruction.

We’ve also included information about the time and money we spent on the install, as well as an itemised list of the tools and materials you need.

One final thing, we’re assuming that you’re clued up about the most effective place to put your campervan heater and your outlet ducts. If you’re not sure, then have a read of this post.

Right, let’s stop dilly-dallying and hop right to it!

This post may contain affiliate links. Meaning, if you make a purchase after clicking one, we may earn some commission. This pocket money will help Vandercamp Adventures continue to grow at no extra cost to you. It’s a win win situation!! Learn More…

Time And Cost

The build time and cost will vary from person to person. Someone who has loads of DIY (or campervan heater installation) experience will get the job finished much quicker than someone with minimal experience.

Additionally, someone with a shed full of tools will find the job cheaper than somebody else who has to go and buy everything.

Our overall timescale – 1.5 days (includes lots of tea breaks!)

Our overall cost – £710.00

But we had these advantages:

  • Lots of DIY experience (Jolly’s).
  • Boxes full of tools (Jolly’s).
  • A large drive to complete the installation (Nemi’s Daddyo).
  • Excellent customer support from Propex (thanks, Alex!)
A collection of open tool boxes ready for the campervan heater install

Our Campervan Heater

HS2211 Underfloor Mounted Blown Air Heater

A Propex HS2211 Campervan heater

The HS2211 Propex heater is designed for external installations but can also be mounted internally. It’s a blown air heating system controlled by a thermostat. The heater can be fuelled with propane, butane or LPG.

The heater is available in three different kits; either for one, two or three outlet installations. We’ve created a detailed component and comparison list here.


Our Campervan Heater Installation Plans

Diagram showing the external campervan heater installation plans

Tools, Materials and Accessories

Essential Tools

ProductDescriptionOther uses
Tape measureStanley 5m/16ft tape measure- Essential tool for use throughout the van build.
Metal filesRolson 2pc metal file set- Filing any cut metal e.g. windows and ventilation.
- Filing any protruding bolts and screws.
Socket set39 piece ratchet socket set- Essential part of the van maintenance toolkit.
- Water tank installation.
Screwdriver73 piece screwdriver set inc. magnetic ratchet wrench- Essential van build tool. Used throughout the build.
Adjustable spannerAdjustable spanner wrench- Water tank installation.
- Commonly used tool for mechanical jobs.
Adjustable pliers250mm Adjustable Multigrip Pliers - Essential van maintenance tool.
- Installing compression fittings, nuts and bolts.
- Water and gas tank installations.
- Window and ventilation installations.
Sealant gunSealant application gun- Installing and sealing a sink.
- Sealing the edge of the flooring and around the kitchen worktop.
- Sticking wooden battons to the walls, flooring and ceiling.
- Window and ventilation applications.
- Watertight seal for roof-mounted items
Pipe benderLever tube pipe bender 6, 8 & 9MM- Gas system installation
Work benchFolding work table- Resting tools, materials, biscuits and a brew.
- Cutting wooden battens and sheet materials.
Wire woolSteel wire wool- Prepping wood ready to paint or oil.
- Cleaning any metalwork for painting.
- Installing copper pipework.
Gas test gauge12-inch/30mb Plastic U-Guage Manometer- Testing the gas installation once it's installed and yearly maintenance checks.
Leak detection sprayFlomaster gas leak detection spray 250ML- Testing pressurised gas pipework for leaks


ProductDescriptionOther uses
Gas pipe8mm copper gas pipe- Gas installation to a tank/bottle, stove, shower, heater etc.
Gas pipe stop cock8mm compression gas stop cock- Gas installations
Gas pipe compression tee (T-piece)8mm compression tee, brass- Gas installations
Compression olives8mm copper compression olives- Compression fittings used in gas installations. To replace used olives in a leaking compression fitting.
Pipe clipsP-clips- Securing any gas pipes and cables
Foam pipe insulation15mm diameter pipe insulation- Insulating and protecting gas pipes, water pipes and cables.
All round bandPVC and metal all round band 10metre roll (12mm black)- Essential campervan maintenance item
- Securing pipework and cables underneath van
- Water tank and gas tank installations
Cable ties300mm x 4.8mm black heavy duty- Essential material for all situations
Aluminium foil tape10metres x 48mm (2") foil tape- Securing double sided foil insulation
- Sealing joints in insulation
Cloth duct tape50metres x 50mm waterproof adhesive cloth duct tape- Essential campervan maintenance tool
Heat shrinkElectrical insulation heat shrink tubing- Insulating cable joints when soldered and crimped.
Wood screws1000pcs screw box - mixed sizes from 16mm to 80mm- All camper conversion installation projects
Self drive metal screws200pcs self drilling screw box, zinc plated - sizes 13/16/19/25/32/38mm - Battoning out the walls ready to insulate
- Installing furniture
- Fitting ventilation and windows
- Flooring
- Securing pipework and cables underneath the van

Bracket Materials

ProductImageDescriptionOther usesView online
Threaded rodM8 Threaded RodM8 (8mm) threaded rod
(Length - 200mm x2, 300mm x2)
- Installing a water tank.View Product
Rod nutsM8 NutsM8 hexagonal nuts (x16 used)- Installing a water tank.View Product
Locking nutsM8 Nylon Locking NutM8 hexagonal locking nuts (x8 used)- Installing a water tank.View Product
Eye bolt nutsM5 NutM5 hexagonal nuts (x8 used)- When installing the M5 eye bolts.View Product
Large washersM8 Washer LargeM8 (8mm) x 24mm diameter flat washer (x8 used)- Woodwork applications.
- Water and gas tank installations.
View Product
Small washersM8-16mm washerM8 (8mm) x 16mm diameter (x16 used)- Woodwork applications.
- Water and gas tank installations.
View Product
Eye boltsM5 Eye BoltM5 eye bolts (Overall length 59mm, thread length 32mm, ring inner diameter 9mm)- We only used them when installing the heater.View Product

Power Tools And Accessories

ProductDescriptionOther uses
Cordless combi drillDewalt 18volt combi drill with 2x batteries.- Essential tool.
- Drilling pilot holes in wood and metal.
- Used as a battery screwdriver.
- Uses the same batteries as the impact driver.
Impact driverDewalt 18volt impact driver with 2x batteries- Installing self-driven screws in metal.
- Making the wooden furniture.
- Uses the same batteries as the combi drill.
Angle grinderBosch 240v angle grinder, 115mm disc diameter- Making brackets for the water tank.
- Repairing and cleaning rust damaged bodywork.
- Cut off protruding screws, bolts and nails.
Metal drill bit setBosch 19-piece HSS metal drill set- Pilot holes in wood to build the interior furniture.
- Pilot holes for cutting out the windows and ventilation.
- Underslung gas tank installation.
Hole saw Good quality 70mm multi material holesaw with arbor- Cutting sheet metal, wood and plastic.
- Ideal for cutting holes in the chassis for pipework, electrical cables and vent holes.
Cutting pasteMetal cutting paste for use with hole saws and metal drill bits- Water tank installation.
- Underslung gas tank installation.
- Windows and ventilation installation.
Soldering iron230volt soldering iron kit- Soldering electrical wiring cables.
Hot air (heat) gun230volt heat gun for shrink wrapping- Installing heat shrink to wiring and cables.

PPE (Personal Protective Equipment)

ProductDescriptionOther uses
Safety glasses Grade F low energy impact.
Clear and anti-scratch.
- General use of hand tools.
- Protection from screws, materials and dust from cutting wood or metal.
- Comfortably wear them all day.
Ear defenders30db Ear defenders- When using a jigsaw to cut wood or metal.
- Drilling metalwork or wood.

TIP - You're less likely to be bothered or disturbed by nosy neighbours when wearing them!
GlovesWork gloves, cut resistant- Essential PPE for every stage of the camper conversion.
- Help to grip when lifting heavy items.
RespiratorP3 half face dust mask respirator.

- Protect against fine dust particles like sawdust and metal dust when cutting.

NOTE - Not suitable to protect against organic vapours and gases caused from paints and aerosols. Filters with an 'A' rating are required.

Additional Components

ProductImageDescriptionUses View online
DuctingPropex 60mm APK marine grade ducting60mm APK Marine Grade DuctingInlet and Outlet ductingBuy from Propex
T pieceT Piece for 60mm (65mm) Hot Air DuctingJoin ducting together to allow multiple inlets/outlet ventsBuy from Propex
Open/close and directional vent Propex open close adjustable ducting ventOpen Close Vent Directional and RestrictableTo direct and restrict air flowing through a vent.Buy from Propex
Thermostat extension cable Thermostat Extension Cable With ConnectorsTo extend the existing 3.5metre thermostat wiringContact Propex

25 Step Campervan Heater Installation Guide

Our complete Propex campervan heater installation guide can be broken down into two sections. Section 1 involves preparing the heater for install, installing it and connecting all the appropriate wiring.

Section 2, on the other hand, has everything relating to the heater’s gas installation. Please bare in mind that when dealing with gas, your safety is the most important thing! If you don’t feel confident, get an expert to do the work for you, and get someone to check it for safety once you’re done.

Section 1: Campervan Heater Installation

Section 2: Campervan Heater Gas Installation

Section 1: Campervan Heater Installation

STAGE 1: Remove The Seat

  • 1:1 – Unscrew the four bolts that secure the seat base to the floor.
  • 1:2 – Unbolt the handbrake handle from the seat base. Put chocks on the wheels to prevent the van from rolling away!
Picture showing how to remove a VW T5 handbrake.
Chocks under camper wheels
Wooden chocks under T5 wheels
  • 1:3 – Once everything is unbolted, take out the seat.
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


We also removed the passenger seat to give us more space to work. However, this isn’t necessary, we just like room to spread out!

Driver and passnger seat removed in the cab of a VW T5

STAGE 2: Access The Floor

  • 2:1 – Remove the plastic step. Push clips hold it in place, so it may need a good tug!
Plastic step cover
  • 2:2 – Roll back the floor mat to access the metal floor (chassis).


Later, when you install the campervan heater bracket bolts, you can’t install them anywhere along the seat base. So, re-install the seat, and mark around the seat base where it touches the floor. Doing this may seem like a faff, but it’ll really come in handy in Stage 6.

  • 2:3 – Jack up the driver’s side of the van and secure it with axel stands. Jack up high enough so you can work under the van, but not so high you can’t easily access the cab.
Campervan jacked up on red axle stands
  • 2:4 – Protect your working area with a dust sheet, tarp, or sheet wood. This will protect the floor from metal shavings, rubbish and potential paint drips.
Wood protecting the floor

STAGE 3: Fit The Eye Bolts

The factory fitted heater brackets are ideal for mounting the heater inside your camper on a flat surface. However, we weren’t confident they were secure enough to hang the heater underneath the van. 

Factory fitted Propex heater bracket
You can bend the factory fitted brackets with your fingers
  • 3:1 – Remove the factory fitted brackets by undoing the four M5 hex bolts (2 on each side) and then remove the other four M5 hex bolts.
  • 3:2 – Replace the eight hex bolts with eye bolts. We used M5 eye bolts with a 9mm eye diameter and a thread length of 10mm.
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


We cut the thread length down to 10mm using an angle grinder because we could only source M5 eye bolts with a 9mm eye and a 32mm length thread. The thread can’t be too long, or it could damage the internal wiring and insulation.

Cutting an eye bolt to length with an angle grinder
One eye bolt measuring 32mm and another measuring 10mm
  • 3:3 – Fit an M5 hex nut onto each of the eight eye bolt threads. These will come in useful in just a sec!
Eye bolt with a hex nut fitted
  • 3:4 – Screw in the eye bolts, so they’re tight, but all facing downwards (so you can put the rods through).
Eye bolt fitted to a campervan heater to hold in in place
  • 3:5 – Your hex nuts come in handy here, as they tighten the eye bolts securely while keeping them facing downwards.
4 eye bolts fixed in place ready for a rod to go through them

STAGE 4: Mark The Bracket Holes

When marking underneath your camper, you need to be accurate, as these are the places you’ll eventually drill into your van.

If they’re not marked correctly, then the rods (which hold the heater to the campervan) won’t fit properly and you could end up with unwanted holes in the floor.

  • 4:1 – Hold the heater into position underneath the van to ensure it will fit. Make sure there’s nothing that will obstruct the pipework later in the installation.
A man holding a Propex heater under a campervan
  • 4:2 – Use a pencil to mark the centre of the eye bolts underneath the van.
Marking the holes to fit a campervan heater
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


Being accurate can be tricky while holding the campervan heater in position. Alternatively, make a cardboard template of the heater to hold up. But don’t forget to include the eye bolts!

  • 4:3 – Hold the heater back up and make sure your marks line up with the centre of the eye bolts. If they aren’t perfectly in the middle, don’t fret! You’ll be able to bend the rods slightly. However, the marks should be as close to the centre as possible, so do it again if they’re way out.

STAGE 5: Install Protective Insulation

Insulating your campervan heater helps it retain heat and protects it from harmful stone chips and other road nasties. We used some double-sided foil insulation (leftover from insulating the van).

Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


You can see where the inlet and outlet ducts are at this stage because they’re clearly marked. However, once you insulate the heater, you’ll obscure the markings. Label them yourself, so you know which is which later.

marked inlet and outlet ducts
  • 5:1 – Wrap the insulation tightly around the heater; cut holes for the eye bolts, the inlet and outlet nozzles, the combustion pipe and the exhaust pipe.
Foil insulation wrapped around a campervan heater
  • 5:2 – Secure the insulation in place with strong tape. We used aluminium tape, but you could also use gaffer or all-purpose tape.
A labelled picture showing the combustion pipe, exhaust pips and inlet and outlet nozzles
  • 5:3 – Label the inlet and outlet ducts and mark a cross on the bottom. The cross is a handy trick that’ll be useful later!
Inlet and outlet duct nozzles clearly labelled on heater insulation

STAGE 6 : Drill The Bracket Holes

  • 6:1 – From the underside of your camper, using a drill bit smaller than 8mm, drill four pilot holes in the places you marked earlier. The pilot holes will act as a guide for the 8mm drill bit you’ll use later.
A pilot hole on the underneath of a VW T5
The mark on the van shows where the pilot hole will go.
  • 6:2 – Once you’ve drilled the pilot holes, have a peek inside the cab. Double-check the holes aren’t along the line of the seat base. You know, the one you marked out in Stage 2:2.
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


If the pilot holes overlap with the line of the seat base, you’ll have to complete Stage 4 again. If you carry on installing, you’ll have a campervan heater, but you probably won’t get your driver’s seat back in.

  • 6:3 – Once you’re happy with the hole positions, drill the four 8mm holes, from inside the cab, using the pilot holes as a guide.
Drilling 8mm holes for the campervan heater brackets
Four pilot holes drilled on the underside of a campervan
View from underneath the van
  • 6:4 – File and clean the holes, ensuring there are no sharp edges. You want a smooth, clean surface for the rust paint to adhere to.
Filing the 8mm holes with a metal file
  • 6:6 – Follow the product instructions to apply the rust paint to the unprotected metal. Paint the holes both on the underside and inside the cab. Hammerite black metal paint will dry in about an hour, dependant on the temperature.

STAGE 7: Make The Brackets

You’ve got about an hour now while you wait for the rust paint to dry, so, go and make yourself a cuppa! But hurry straight back, because you need to fit the M8 threaded rods to your heater.

  • 7:1 – The M8 bars need to be long enough to go through the heater eye bolts and the floor of the van. Our bars measured 500mm, after being cut down from 1000mm, which was more than long enough. Once installed, two of our bars measured 200mm, while the other two measured 300mm.
  • 7:2 – To secure the rods to the heater, you need 4 M8x16mm washers and 4 M8 nuts per rod (or 2 washers and 2 nuts per eye bolt).
A labelled diagram of all the nuts and washers needed for making the brackets for a campervan heater
  • 7:3 – To secure the rods to the heater, place a washer each side of the each eye bolt, then a nut either side of the washers. You’ll have 4 (M8x16) washers and 4 (M8) nuts per rod.
  • 7:3 – One end of the rod should be about level with the bottom of the heater, while the other end continues up past the top. And you’ll know where the bottom is because you marked it with an X, you clever thing, you!

Nemi guide

How do I get all the nuts and washers in the right place?

A lady installing the nuts and washers on a campervan heater bracket
Concentration face!

Push a rod through the top eye bolt until it’s halfway between the top and bottom eye bolts. Slide along a washer, screw in two nuts and then another washer. Next, push the rod through the bottom eye bolt.

Now, add a washer and a nut to the outside of eye bolts. Spin the nuts and washers into the correct place along the rod until you have; nut, washer, eye bolt, washer, nut, BIG SPACE, nut, washer, eye bolt, washer, nut.

That’s one rod complete.

Repeat three more times!

Rods, eyeles, nuts and washers in order to make a campervan bracket
Overview of rods, nuts and washers in position.
Nuts at the end of the rods, by the bottom of the heater
  • 7:4 Leave enough thread at the bottom of the rod to fit an M8 locking nut once you’ve installed the heater in Stage 8:6.
An M8 locking nut attached to the bottom of the heater bracket rods
Example of the locking nut installed.


Leave the nuts slightly loose for now, making it easier to align the rods through the holes in the van floor later on.

  • 7:5 – Place another M8 nut and an M8x22mm washer (which will be bigger than the others you’ve used) at the top of the rod. Once you’ve installed the heater, these will tighten against the underside of the chassis.
M8 nuts and 22mm washers at the top of the bracket rod

STAGE 8: Fit The Heater

Now, unless you’re an octopus, this step is tricky. Having a second pair of hands is ideal because you need to lift the heater, push the rods through the drilled holes while simultaneously installing nuts and washers.

But if you can’t find anyone to help you, don’t fret! Use another car jack, a box or a stool to hold the heater in place.

  • 8:1 – Position the heater underneath the van and roughly align the rods to the holes you drilled in Stage 6.
Propex campervan heater ready to be installed
  • 8:2 – Lift the heater while pushing the rods through the holes.
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


This is where your helper (either human or inanimate) will come in. While the heater is in place, with the rods through the holes, your human helper needs to do the next step, or something needs to hold the heater in place while you do it yourself.

Camper heater being held in place by a jack
Nemi had abandoned Jolly for a bit, so he had to use a car jack. 
  • 8:3 – From inside the cab, loosely fit an M8x22mm washer (the bigger ones!) and an M8 nut onto each rod. These will hold the heater in place, making it easier to position it underneath the van.
M8 nuts and 22mm washers holding the campervan heater in place inside the cab
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


Tighten the nuts enough to hold the heater in place, but not so tight that you can’t move it around.

  • 8:4 – Push the heater up as close as possible to the chassis (bottom of the van). When the heater is positioned, tighten the nuts inside the cab until the washer rests loosely on the cab floor.
Campervan heater being held into position to ensure the position is correct
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


Before tightening any nuts underneath the van, make sure the heater is level. Because the van is on jacks, it won’t be level. So either:

1. Use a straight edge to check the heater is level with the bottom of the van

2. Remove the jacks and ensure the heater is roughly parallel with the floor.

Also, leave a small gap of a few millimetres between the heater and the chassis, as this will reduce vibration noise when the heater is running.

  • 8:5 – When you’re happy with the positioning, tighten all the nuts; around the eye bolts, nearest the chassis and in the cab.
  • 8:6 – Fit M8 locking nuts to the bottom of the rods, underneath the van.
A gap between the heater and the chassis
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


Over time, the vibrations may loosen the nuts slightly. So, we recommend adding ‘check heater nuts’ to your monthly campervan checklist. Better safe than sorry!

  • 8:7 – Inside the van, use an angle grinder to cut the rods down to size, leaving enough space to fit a locking nut.
Labelled picture showing the heater rods cut to size inside the van
  • 8:8 – Finally, fit an M8 locking nut to all four rods inside the cab. The heater will then be secured underneath the van.
An M8 locking nut on top of the bracket rod in the camper cab

STAGE 9: Drill The Duct Holes

Once you’ve fitted your campervan heater underneath your van, you need to drill duct holes for the inlet and outlet pipes. If you’re unsure about where your duct holes need to be, read this post before beginning this step. 

As the ducting is 60mm, you’ll cut holes that are 70mm with a hole saw.

60mm ducting with a 70mm hole saw


Before doing any drilling, cover the blue duct nozzles with tape to stop any bits from going into (and potentially damaging!) the heater.

  • 9:1 – Measure where your duct holes will go. They must only go through the floor pan, not any structural beams. Additionally, they need to avoid obstructions inside your van. At this stage, it’s a bit tricky to check both inside and outside, but do your best to measure accurately where the holes will come out inside your van.
  • 9:2 – Mark where your two duct holes will go. You can either make a template of the hole saw or draw around the hole saw itself.
  • 9:3 – From underneath your camper, drill a pilot hole at the centre of your marked circle.
  • 9:4 – From inside, you can now accurately see where the duct hole will go. If it will go through any structural beams or encounter obstructions, then go back to Stage 9:1.
  • 9:5 – Use the hole saw to drill a 70mm hole from inside the van. Because the van floor is structural, it’s very thick making it tough to drill through. Make the experience as easy on yourself as possible by using a super sharp hole saw.
A hols saw cutting duct holes for a campervan heater


For best results, drill on speed 1 (slow) and use a cutting compound to keep the hole saw cool and protect the hole saw’s teeth.

A drill set to the slower speed setting
  • 9:6 – You be careful! The edges of the holes you just cut out will be super sharp, so smooth them off using a metal file. Do a thorough job, as any sharp bits will damage the heater insulation and ducting.
Filing the hole cut by the hole saw
  • 9:7 – The metal paint needs a clean surface to adhere to, so rub any exposed metal with wire wool.
  • 9:8 – Hoover and clean the area, paying attention to remove all metal offcuts and swarf (a technical word for fine metal shavings).
Hoovering and metal filings
  • 9:9 – Apply metal paint to the exposed metal, both inside and out, and allow to dry.
Rust paint painted onto a hole for campervan heater ducting


Also apply weatherproof sealant between the wood flooring and metal floor to ensure no moisture or other nasties can sneak in.

Sealant between the wooden floor and the metal underside of the van

STAGE 10: Insulate The Ducting

For your campervan heater to work effectively, it must retain as much heat as possible. So, insulate the ducting. For best results (and to make your life easier!), insulate the ducting before installing it in your camper.

  • 10:1 – Wrap the insulation (again, we used double-sided foil insulation) around the ducting and tape it with aluminium foil tape. Don’t wrap it super tight, though, as little air gaps will help to further insulate it. Additionally, if it’s too tight, you won’t be able to bend the ducting.
Foil insulation around the campervan heater ducting
  • 10: 2- Insulate both the inlet and outlet ducting to create maximum efficiency when heating your camper.

STAGE 11: Install The Ducting

Make sure you get the ducting pipes the correct way round. Remember:

Outlet = blows air out.

Inlet = draws in air.

  • 11:1 – Remove the tape you put over the nozzles at the start of Stage 9 to protect the heater.
  • 11:2 – From inside the van, feed the ends of each pipe (it doesn’t matter which end) through the duct holes you cut in Stage 9.
Foil insulated ducting going through the campervan floor
  • 11:3 – Push the inlet and outlet duct pipes into the nozzle’s corresponding inlet and outlet holes. As you push the duct pipe into the nozzle, it will click securely into place.
A diagram showing the ducting clicking into place in the heater nozzle
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


If the ducting pipes are the same length. mark which ducting is which inside the van so you don’t get them mixed up.

  • 11:4 – Once the ducting is secure in the nozzles, tape over the joins to provide an even better seal.
  • 11:5 – Wrap the insulated pipe with cloth tape to add an extra layer of protection. It never hurts to go a bit overboard when you’re protecting valuable stuff! 
Cloth tape wrapped around the ducting for extra proptection
  • 11:6 – If the ducting pipe is long underneath your van, secure it in position with tie wraps so it doesn’t sag.
  • 11:7 – Route the ducting inside the van – you’ll find tips on duct positioning here. Be mindful that even after it’s insulated, the outlet pipe will still get very warm. Route it away from any items or equipment that are sensitive to heat.
Ducting routed in the living space of the camper conversion
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


 Wherever you put the inlet and outlet ducts, make sure they won’t ever be blocked or obstructed. 

  • 11:8 – If the ducting needs cutting to length, use a hacksaw with a fine metal blade. Although you can cut it with metal shears, the cut will be uneven.
  • 11:9 – Install any duct fittings by simply twisting them onto the duct pipe. Then, secure the join with tape.
60mm hot air ducting tee piece
T-piece duct vent
Open/Close and adjustable duct vent
Open/Close and adjustable duct vent
  • 11:10 – When all the ducting is in position, secure it using a PVC coated metal all-round band. The band can be cut to size and has a protective coating to prevent damage to the ducting.
12mm all round band holding the ducting in place inside the camper

STAGE 12: Combustion Air Inlet Flue

The combustion air inlet flue on the campervan heater connects to the flexible black hose.

The Propex manual states:

The minimum length of the combustion air flue must be 1m, and a maximum length of 2m.

Basically, the flue provided in the kit is 1m, so do not shorten it. 

The combustion air inlet flue and the exhaust flue must both point in the same direction, and the open ends of each flue must be 500mm away from each other.

black combustion air inlet flu and metallic exhaust flue
  • 12:1 – Attach the black hose to the combustion air inlet pipe using a jubilee clip (supplied in the Propex heater kit).
  • 12:2 – Position the hose underneath your camper, ensuring it has a slight downward slope to prevent any water from sneaking in.
  • 12: 3 – Fix the hose into position using a flue hose clip (and cable ties if necessary).
Combustion air inlet flue routed at least 500mm away from the exhaust flue
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


We positioned the black combustion air inlet hose tight against the chassis facing the rear of the van to reduce the risk of any debris getting inside.

STAGE 13: Exhaust Flue

The exhaust flue hose is metallic and more rigid than the black combustion hose.

As we said in the previous step, the exhaust flue and the combustion air inlet flue must point in the same direction. The open ends of each flue must be 500mm away from each other. The exhaust flue should also have a slight downwards slope to prevent water from getting in.

The minimum length of the exhaust flue hose is 0.75m, and the maximum length is 2m

  • 13:1 – One end of the exhaust flue has a heat resistant rubber hose. Attach this end to the exhaust flue pipe (on the heater) using a jubilee clip.
Rubber hose a jubilee clip holding the exhaust flue in place
  • 13:2 – The exhaust flue pipe must point away from any opening windows or vents that draw air into your camper. There must be nothing obstructing the flue opening, so the exhaust can safely disperse the harmful fumes.
The exhaust flue pointing away from the van
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


The exhaust flue hose will get very hot, so route it around the chassis avoiding gas pipes and wires.

  • 13:3 – Secure the hose in position using the flue hose clips provided. If you need more clips, make sure they’re metal, as the heat from the pipe could melt plastic and rubber ones.

STAGE 14: Control Panel Positioning

Position the control panel first, before you route the wiring; just remember that the heater wiring is only 3.5m long. If you plan to put it further away, you’ll need additional wiring, so contact Propex directly to see if they can help.

The control panel has a built-in thermostat to regulate the temperature in your campervan. For accurate temperature control, mount it away from the outlet duct, direct sunlight, and draughts.

Control panel mounted inside the camper, set to zero
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


The Propex heater manual states to position the controller about 1.5 metres from the floor. However, if you have a low roof, this would mean fitting it on the ceiling, which we wouldn’t recommend! So instead, focus on finding a cool spot, out of direct sunlight, about halfway up the wall.

  • 14:1 – Choose a suitable position for your campervan heater control panel.
The control panel mounted inside the camper away from the heater vents and draughts
  • 14:2 – Cut out a small section of the wall, creating space for the plug and connector. Either:

a) Remove the panel of the wall and use a jigsaw to cut a hole.
b) Leave the panel in place and use a hole saw to cut out a small section.

STAGE 15: Control Panel Wiring

  • 15:1 – Route the cable from the heater to the control panel, ensuring the 12-way plug is at the heater, while the 6-way plug is at the control panel.
12 way heater plug and 6 way control panel plug
  • 15:2 – Keep the cable away from hot surfaces and when routing through the chassis, ensure it has additional protection from any sharp metal.
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


We routed the cable through the chassis via a hole we’d previously made to route the gas pipes and water pipes. This hole is 50mm in diameter and uses a gas drop out vent (with the vent hatching cut out) as a way of protecting the pipes and wiring.

The control panel cable going through a hole in a campervan floor
  • 15:3 – Connect the 12-way cable plug to the 12-way connector on the campervan heater and slide the protective cover over the plug.
Connected 12 way plug on the 12 way connector
  • 15:4 – Connect the 6-way cable plug to the 6-way connector on the controller.
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


The electrical connectors will only connect one way; you can’t get it wrong! Simply push them together, and they’ll click into place.

  • 15:5 – Screw the control panel to the wall, being careful not to trap any wiring.

STAGE 16: Heater Power Supply

For the heater to work, it needs a supply cable to give it power. Although the cable itself isn’t supplied, the kit includes:

Fuse: 5 amp fuse
Fuse carrier: holds the fuse
2 spade connectors: connect the fuse carrier to the cable.

Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


In Vandercamp, we already had a 12V fuse box. So we connected the supply cable directly into a spare way (fuse in the 12V box). Most likely, you’ll have a 12V fuse box too. If so, you can discard the fuse parts listed above.

12V fuseboard and heater supply

The campervan heater supply cable needs to be sufficient to carry 2.5 Amps at 12 volts d.c. (direct current). Anything less, the cable could become damaged and could cause a fire.

So sizing the supply cable is really important and would usually require some in-depth cable calculations.

But don’t worry! Jolly loves geeking out with this stuff, so he’s made you this handy table: 

Cable Length (Metres)Cable Size (mm²)
0 - 20.5
2 - 51.0
5 - 71.5
7 - 102.0
NOTE - The cable calculations are based on:
(i) using PVC stranded flex as the supply cable.
(ii) a 3-4% Volt Drop.

  • 16:1 – Route the supply cable from the fuse carrier/12V fuse box to the 12-way heater plug.
  • 16:2 – Connect the supply cable to the red and white wires coming off the 12-way plug. We recommend soldering the wires together.
Red and white (positive and negative) power cables
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


According to the current electrical regulations:

Electrical supplyPositive (+)Negative (-)
DC (direct current) WiringRedBlack
AC (alternating current) wiringBrownBlue
These are the European wiring colours stated in the BS7671 electrical regulations. If your outside the EU, your electrical regulations may state different colours.

Although we advise following the correct wiring colours, you can use any colour, as long as you label the cables positive/negative, to ensure you won’t get them mixed up!

We connected the red (positive) heater wire to a brown wire and the white (negative) heater wire to a blue wire.

So the red/brown wires were marked positive (+) and the white/blue ones marked negative (-).

  • 16:3 – Connect the other end of the supply cable to the fuse carrier/12V fuse box.

Section 2: Campervan Heater Gas Installation

We’ve included as much information as possible, but please remember that our advice isn’t certified, as we’re not gas engineers.

Please refer to the current campervan gas regulations – updated to 2022

Nemi had a lot more questions in this section, so there are more Nemi help containers. The same as earlier, if you’re a clever clogs who doesn’t need them just skip ahead to the next step.

STAGE 17A: New Gas Pipe Installation

To supply a Propex campervan heater with gas, an 8mm gas pipe needs installing to link the heater with the gas supply (via a regulator).

If your camper doesn’t have any gas installed yet, you’ll need to fit the gas pipe to the heater when you carry out the gas installation

Jump to stage 19.

STAGE 17B: Additional Gas Pipe Installation

If you already have gas fitted in your camper, you’ll need to connect your Propex heater to the existing gas system

We’ve based these instructions on the gas system we have in Vandercamp. If you want more detail on this, use the diagram above as a reference.

A diagram showing the proposed route for the gas pipe underneath the camper
Plan of our additional gas pipe installation.


Test your existing system for gas leaks and get any problems sorted. If you discover a leak later (once the gas for the heater is installed) then you can eliminate the bit you’ve already tested. Jump ahead to Stage 23 for help.

  • 17:1 – 1 – Turn the gas off at the tank. Switch gas appliances on to release any gas in the pipes.
Turn gas nozzle to the right to turn it off
  • 17:2 – Expose the existing pipe from any protection, like foam pipe insulation and mark where you’re going to connect onto the existing gas pipe.

Nemi guide

Where should I connect onto the existing gas pipe?

You need to connect the new gas pipe (to supply gas to your campervan heater) after the regulator (and the manifold, if you have one).

The regulator regulates the pressure of the gas (at 30 Mbar).

The manifold (AKA isolator) allows you to control whether the gas to your heater is on or off.

Refer to the diagram if you’re unsure.

Marker pen line showing where to cut the gas pipe
  • 17:3 – Use an adjustable pipe cutter to cut the existing gas pipe.

Nemi guide

How do I use a pipe cutter?

Open the pipe cutter wide enough so the pipe will sit on the rollers.

Adjust the cutter wheel until the cutter is touching the mark on the pipe.

Rotate the cutter around the pipe. As it starts cutting, it will begin to feel looser.

Tighten the cutting wheel a few turns and then rotate the cutter around the pipe again.

Continue rotating and gently tightening until you’ve cut the pipe.

A black pipe cutter
A black pipe cutter placed next to the copper gas pipe
A cut copper gas pipe
  • 17:4 – If the pipe has a PVC coating around it, you need to trim this away.

Nemi guide

What’s the best way to trim off the PVC coating?

Mark approximately 10mm from both of the cut ends. Using the pipe cutter process described above, cut the protective coating. Make sure you only trim the PVC coating and don’t cut into the pipe

Remove these 10mm coating pieces, exposing the copper pipe.

Clean the cut ends with wire wool to leave a smooth, clean edge.

  • 17:5 – Fit the compression tee piece.

Nemi guide

How do I fit a compression tee piece?

Undo the compression tee piece; the tee piece body, three compression nuts and three olives. 

Push a compression nut onto both ends of the exposed cut pipe.

Then, push an olive onto both ends of the pipe.

A compression nut and an 8mm olive

Insert one end of the exposed pipe into the tee piece body.

Slide the olive up until it’s touching the tee piece body.

Now, tighten the compression nut by hand

Repeat this process with the other end of the exposed pipe, so the two cut ends of the pipe are connected with the compression tee piece.

  • 17:6 – Now, tighten the compression nut by hand onto the tee piece body. By leaving the fitting loose, will make it easier to install the heater pipe later. We’ll tighten up in Stage 21.

STAGE 18: Bend The Gas Pipe

You now need to install a gas pipe to link the compression tee piece to the campervan heater. You may need to bend the pipe to route it underneath your camper. Luckily, the pipe is made from copper, which is a very malleable material.

Although you’ll be able to bend the pipe by hand, make sure not to bend it too much. Overbending could cause creases to form or the pipe to close.


Long bends are more straightforward and less likely to damage the copper pipe than sharp bends.

  • 18:1 – Uncoil the pipe by hand but don’t worry about it being perfectly straight!
Curled up copper pipe for campervan heater gas installation
  • 18:2 – Hold the pipe where you need it underneath the van. Allow for additional pipe where it’ll join onto the heater and compression tee. This extra pipe is a precaution in case you make a mistake when measuring or cutting.
  • 18:3 – With a marker pen, roughly mark where you want to create a bend in the pipe.
  • 18:4 – Bend the copper pipe.
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


Now, the proper method of bending copper pipe is with a pipe bending tool. However, as it wasn’t cost-effective for us, we used a less professional approach of using a cylindrical-shaped object. (A 63mm hole saw works perfectly!)

A 65mm holes aw being used to bend an 8mm copper gas pipe

Follow these instructions for our bodge way of bending a pipe.

– Lay the pipe flat on a stable surface. Put the hole saw next to the mark you made. 

– Don’t bend the pipe in one go, as this may cause it to close inside.

– Instead, slowly bend the pipe in one spot by approximately 2mm, then move the hole saw along the pipe by 10mm and bend again. Keep moving the hole saw back and forward along the pipe, bending it gradually and slowly.

If you overbend the pipe, use the same method as above, but put the hole saw outside the bend. 

The trick is to be slow and steady to avoid creasing and closing the pipe. If it creases or closes, it’s game over, I’m afraid. You’ll have to start over with a new pipe.   

Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


Due to the positioning of our heater, we required two 90 degree bends in the pipe. If you also need multiple bends, do one bend then and check the pipe fits correctly before moving onto the next bend.

wo 90 degrees bends in a copper gas pipe

STAGE 19: Fit A Gas Shut Off Valve

A shut-off valve, known as a gas cock, needs installing on the gas pipe for safety and maintenance. It needs to be close to the campervan heater and somewhere that’s easily accessible. Ours is in easy reach below the driver’s door, and the van doesn’t need to be jacked up to reach it.

  • 19:1 – First, cut the pipe to accommodate the gas cock. If you need help here, jump back to the Nemi Guide in Stage 17.
  • 19:2 – Fit an 8mm gas cock compression fitting using the method described in Stage 17.
  • 19:3 – Tighten it by hand for now.
Gas compression cock fitted on an 8mm gas pipe

STAGE 20: Fit The Gas Pipe

At this stage, the new gas pipe is ready to connect to the heater. The pipe will connect to the “gas in” compression fitting, which is mounted at the rear of the Propex campervan heater.

  • 20:1 – Remove the 8mm compression nut and olive from the heater’s “gas in” point.
  • 20:2 – Fit the compression nut and olive onto the new gas pipe.
  • 20:3 – Connect the new gas pipe to the “gas in” point.
  • 20:4 – Tighten the compression nut by hand. We’ll tighten it fully in the next step. 

STAGE 21: Secure The Gas Pipe

We told you to leave the compression nuts loose on the tee piece, the gas cock, and the “gas in” point. This is so you can secure the gas pipe under the van; if they were all tight, the gas pipe would be rigid, and you wouldn’t be able to move it into position.

  • 21:1 – Using 8mm P-clips and self-driving metal screws, secure the pipework to the underside of the van.
P clips securing the copper gas pipe in position underneath the campervan
  • 21:2 – Once it’s secure, ensure the gas pipe is fully inserted into all the compression fittings. (Tee piece, gas cock and “gas in” point.)
  • 21:3 – Use pipe grips/pliers to hold the compression fitting, while using an adjustable spanner to tighten all the compression nuts. Keep checking that the gas pipe is fully inserted into the compression fitting as you tighten the nuts.

STAGE 22: Gas Pipe Protection

Some gas pipes are unprotected, exposed copper, while others have a protective white PVC coating.

  • 22:1 – If your gas pipe is unprotected, wrap it in white insulation tape to protect it from stone chips.
  • 22:2 – Wrap the protected pipe with foam pipe insulation to give it even more protection.
  • 22:3 – Secure the foam pipe in place with cable ties.
foam pipe insulation to protect the copper gas pipe

STAGE 23: Test For Leaks

Once the gas pipe is installed and connected, you need to test the system for leaks. We’ve included as much information as possible, but please remember that our advice isn’t certified, as we’re not gas engineers.

When doing anything with gas, be super sensible. Conduct the test in an open space, don’t have naked flames and if you don’t feel confident, ask a professional to do it!

For safety, you must get it checked afterwards. The Propex manual Step 11 states:

The gas soundness check must be carried out by an accredited LPG engineer and a test certificate issued.

If you’re jumping in here, turn the gas supply off and run all gas appliances, releasing gas in the pipes.

A diagram showing how to to open the manifolds and isolators and run gas from the stove

When installing the gas in your campervan, you need a point where you can connect a gas test gauge. Typically, this will be a “gas test nipple”, however in Vandercamp, we used the rear gas cooker connector.

Despite what could be used, we’ll refer to the testing point in this stage as the “gas test nipple”.



The campervan gas regulations BS EN 1949:2011 + A1:2013 state the gas system should be tested to 5x the working pressure. Therefore, a campervan would be tested to 150 mbar of pressure because the regulator is rated at 30 mbar.

The process below explains how to test your gas system to 30 mbar of pressure (DIY method). A qualified gas engineer reassured us that testing the system to 30 mbar is sufficient.

> Please refer to the current campervan gas regulations <

However, it’s advised the system is inspected by a qualified Gas Safe engineer once completed.

  • 23:1 – Read the instruction manual to learn how to use your gas test gauge.
A gas test gauge
12-inch, 30mb Plastic U-Guage Manometer
  • 23:2 – Connect the rubber hose on the tester to the “gas test nipple”. This will allow gas to flow into the tester when you turn the gas on.
The rear gas cooker connector being used as a gas test nipple
We used the rear gas cooker connector as a “gas test nipple”
  • 23:3 – Ensure the reading is as close to ‘0’ as possible. (Read your instructions for details.)
The gas test gauge set at zero
  • 23:4 – For an accurate test, gas needs to flow through the entire gas installation system. Open all the isolators (gas cock and manifold) but don’t switch on any appliances, as this will allow gas to escape.
  • 23:5 – Turn on the gas supply.
A diagram showing all gas apppliances turned off while gas flows through the gas sstem
  • 23:6 – Check the gauge pressure reading. It should rise from ‘0’ and sit steadily at approximately 30 Mbar.
A gas test gauge showing a reading of about 31.5 Mbar
We had a slightly higher reading, as the test gauge wasn’t on exactly zero when we started.
  • 23:7 – Turn off the gas supply, preventing any new gas from entering.
  • 23:8 – As long as there aren’t any disastrous leaks, the system will hold the same gas pressure. Therefore, the pressure test reading will remain at the same reading (approximately30Mbar).
  • 23:9 – With the gas off, turn a hob on for a few seconds to release some gas. The pressure test reading should drop slightly but then remain steady.
Gas stove turned on
Gas test gauge showing a slight pressure drop of 0.5 Mbar
  • 23:10 – Note the reading, then set a timer for 20 minutes. TEA BREAK!
  • 23:11 – After 20 minutes, if the reading hasn’t changed, good job! There’s no leak. If your reading is decreasing, jump to Stage 24.
A gas test gauge showing the pressure reading of 31mbar
  • 23:12 – Get an accredited gas engineer to issue a gas test certificate.

STAGE 24: Fix The Leak

We’ve included as much information as possible, but please remember that our advice isn’t certified, as we’re not gas engineers.

Please refer to the current campervan gas regulations – updated to 2022

If the reading has reduced, there’s potentially a leak in the system

SLOWLY decreasing pressure reading: You have a small gas leak.

QUICKLY decreasing pressure reading: You have a sizeable gas leak. 

A gas test gauge showing a reading of 16 Mbar
Our first gas test result showed we had a sizeable gas leak somewhere.


Whether you’ve got a small or large gas leak, stay safe. Complete this step in an open space, and for goodness sake, don’t light a fag! When trying to find the leak, have a sensible person switch the gas on and off for you, rather than leaving the it on the whole time.

You can find the leak using leak detection spray or the soapy water method described below.

There’s a process of elimination when finding a gas leak. Start with the safest options with the gas still off

Elimination Stage 1:

Double-check all your gas appliances are switched off.

Make sure your compression fittings and joints are all tight. 

Re-test the system following Stage 23:5 – 23:12.

Oh dear…you’re back again, which means the pressure is still dropping.

Elimination Stage 2:

If possible, isolate (stop gas getting to) some areas of your gas system by switching off manifolds, isolators or gas cocks.

Make sure you’re not also isolating your gas tester.

A diagram showing how to isolate certain areas of the gas system

Re-test the system following Stage 23:5 – 23:12.

No leak = Result! You know the leak is somewhere in the ‘isolated’ part of the system.

Leak = Also a result! You know the leak is in the area where the gas is flowing. However, once this leak is found, confirm there isn’t another leak in the isolated area by retesting the whole system.

So, you’ve confirmed which area has the gas leak, now you’ve just got to find the blighter!

  • 24:1 – Mix some washing up liquid (or anything that’ll create bubbles) with water in a spray bottle. Start with joints in the pipework (compression joints); these are the most likely culprits of your leak.
  • 24:2 – Liberally spray the soapy mixture onto one of the compression joints. Make sure to saturate the entire joint.
  • 24:3 – Your lovely assistant needs to slowly turn on the gas until the gas pressure gauge reading starts to drop.
  • 24:4 – Bubbles will appear if there’s a leak. If there are no bubbles, continue to saturate the entire joint. If there are still no bubbles and the pressure gauge reading continues to drop, turn the gas off and move onto the next compression joint.
  • 24:6 – If you’ve tested all the compression joints and had no luck, repeat the process along the new pipework. 


STILL no luck?!

We recommend calling a certified gas engineer rather than struggle on. Remember to also get them to issue a gas safety certificate once they’re done.

  • 24:7 – Once you’ve located the leak, follow the stages below to fix it.

Fixing a compression joint leak: Unfortunately, you’ll need to return to Stage 17:5 to re-install it. You’ve tightened all the nuts by this stage, which will have squashed the olive onto the pipe. You’ll need to cut the pipe where it’s been squashed by the olive, and you’ll need new olives too. 

Fixing a pipework leak: Replace the piece of pipework.

Once the leak has been found and repaired, re-test the system following Stage 23:5 – 23:13.

STAGE 25: Test The Heater

  • 25:1 – Switch on the gas supply (including gas cock and manifold) to the campervan heater.
  • 25:2 – Turn the selector knob to ‘0’ (off).
The campervan heater control panel set to zero
  • 25:3 – Insert the fuse (either into the fuse carrier or the 12V fuse box), to turn on the power supply to the heater.
  • 25:4 – Turn the dial to the fan position; you will hear the fan start running.
The control panel set to the fan setting
  • 25:5 – Check air is blowing out of the outlet hose and being drawn in through the inlet hose.
  • 25:4 – Turn the temperature control knob to maximum and the selector knob to the flame position. The heater will click as it ignites the gas.
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


The temperature control knob doesn’t change the temperature of the air from the heater. It sets the ambient air temperature in your camper. 

Blue settings on the left are the coldest settings while red on the right are the hottest
Coldest and hottest ambient room temperature settings.
  • 25:5 – When the gas has ignited, the green LED on the control panel will illuminate. It may take several attempts to ignite, but the heater will do this automatically.
The controller set to the flame setting
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


If it fails to ignite, the red LED on the control panel will flash. Refer to the troubleshooting section in the manual for gas lockout resetting.

  • 25:6 – You will start to feel hot air flowing from the outlet hose.
  • 25:7 – Once the camper’s ambient temperature reaches the setpoint on the temperature dial, the heater will turn off. As the ambient temperature falls a few degrees, the heater will turn on again.
  • 25:8 – Play around with the temperature dial to find the best ambient temperature for you.
  • 25:9 – To turn the heater off, turn the selector knob to ‘0’.
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


The fan will continue to run for three minutes to allow the heater to cool down. The air from the outlet hose gradually cools.

  • 25:10 – Your last step (if you’ve not already done it!). The Propex manual (step 11) states:

The gas soundness check must be carried out by an accredited LPG engineer and a test certificate issued.


Well done, you clever thing! You’ve successfully installed a Propex HS2211 campervan heater using our 25 stage guide. Did you find the hints and tips helpful? Or is there something else you need us to include? Drop us a comment or a message, and we’ll get back to you as quickly as we can.

Now you’ve installed your heater, you’ll have peace of mind knowing you’ll be cosier in colder climates and snug on your winter adventures.

Now, hop to it, and go and warm those tootsies in your toasty camper.

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