Are you ready to install your Propex HS2211 campervan heater? Well, you’re definitely in the right place. Once you’ve installed your heater, you’ll be warm and cosy at the flick of a switch. So, no more worrying about Jack Frost invading your rolling home!
When we installed our heater, we used the Propex manual for support. However, we still had some queries and had to email them for clarification. From this experience, we can lead you through every step of your installation (from installing the heater to installing the heater’s gas) in our tried and tested 25 stage guide.
We’ll still refer to and quote from the manual when it’s important – download a copy here.
At this point, you must be wondering how on earth you can install a campervan heater and its gas in just 25 stages. Well, my friend, imagine each stage is a goal. We’ve broken each goal down into simple steps so you can achieve it.
And if that’s not enough, we’ve also bundled in a load of helpful hints, tips and tricks. Just look out for these icons:
Either we’ve got some extra information to share with you, or we’ll let you know what we did when we installed our own heater.
Handy hints and nifty tips from Jolly, the DIY master.
DIY novices unite! These are the things Nemi needed help with during our campervan heater install.
However, if you don’t need these helping hands, you can jump straight ahead to the next instruction.
We’ve also included information about the time and money we spent on the install, as well as an itemised list of the tools and materials you need.
One final thing, we’re assuming that you’re clued up about the most effective place to put your campervan heater and your outlet ducts. If you’re not sure, then have a read of this post.
Right, let’s stop dilly-dallying and hop right to it!
This post may contain affiliate links. Meaning, if you make a purchase after clicking one, we may earn some commission. This pocket money will help Vandercamp Adventures continue to grow at no extra cost to you. It’s a win win situation!! Learn More…
Table of Contents:
Time And Cost
The build time and cost will vary from person to person. Someone who has loads of DIY (or campervan heater installation) experience will get the job finished much quicker than someone with minimal experience.
Additionally, someone with a shed full of tools will find the job cheaper than somebody else who has to go and buy everything.
Our overall timescale – 1.5 days (includes lots of tea breaks!)
Our overall cost – £710.00
But we had these advantages:
Our Campervan Heater
HS2211 Underfloor Mounted Blown Air Heater
The HS2211 Propex heater is designed for external installations but can also be mounted internally. It’s a blown air heating system controlled by a thermostat. The heater can be fuelled with propane, butane or LPG.
The heater is available in three different kits; either for one, two or three outlet installations. We’ve created a detailed component and comparison list here.
FAQ’s
Our Campervan Heater Installation Plans
Tools, Materials and Accessories
Essential Tools
| Product | Description | Other uses |
|---|---|---|
| Tape measure | Stanley 5m/16ft tape measure | - Essential tool for use throughout the van build. |
| Metal files | Rolson 2pc metal file set | - Filing any cut metal e.g. windows and ventilation. - Filing any protruding bolts and screws. |
| Socket set | 39 piece ratchet socket set | - Essential part of the van maintenance toolkit. - Water tank installation. |
| Screwdriver | 73 piece screwdriver set inc. magnetic ratchet wrench | - Essential van build tool. Used throughout the build. |
| Adjustable spanner | Adjustable spanner wrench | - Water tank installation. - Commonly used tool for mechanical jobs. |
| Adjustable pliers | 250mm Adjustable Multigrip Pliers | - Essential van maintenance tool. - Installing compression fittings, nuts and bolts. - Water and gas tank installations. - Window and ventilation installations. |
| Sealant gun | Sealant application gun | - Installing and sealing a sink. - Sealing the edge of the flooring and around the kitchen worktop. - Sticking wooden battons to the walls, flooring and ceiling. - Window and ventilation applications. - Watertight seal for roof-mounted items |
| Pipe bender | Lever tube pipe bender 6, 8 & 9MM | - Gas system installation |
| Work bench | Folding work table | - Resting tools, materials, biscuits and a brew. - Cutting wooden battens and sheet materials. |
| Wire wool | Steel wire wool | - Prepping wood ready to paint or oil. - Cleaning any metalwork for painting. - Installing copper pipework. |
| Gas test gauge | 12-inch/30mb Plastic U-Guage Manometer | - Testing the gas installation once it's installed and yearly maintenance checks. |
| Leak detection spray | Flomaster gas leak detection spray 250ML | - Testing pressurised gas pipework for leaks |
Materials
| Product | Description | Other uses |
|---|---|---|
| Gas pipe | 8mm copper gas pipe | - Gas installation to a tank/bottle, stove, shower, heater etc. |
| Gas pipe stop cock | 8mm compression gas stop cock | - Gas installations |
| Gas pipe compression tee (T-piece) | 8mm compression tee, brass | - Gas installations |
| Compression olives | 8mm copper compression olives | - Compression fittings used in gas installations. To replace used olives in a leaking compression fitting. |
| Pipe clips | P-clips | - Securing any gas pipes and cables |
| Foam pipe insulation | 15mm diameter pipe insulation | - Insulating and protecting gas pipes, water pipes and cables. |
| All round band | PVC and metal all round band 10metre roll (12mm black) | - Essential campervan maintenance item - Securing pipework and cables underneath van - Water tank and gas tank installations |
| Cable ties | 300mm x 4.8mm black heavy duty | - Essential material for all situations |
| Aluminium foil tape | 10metres x 48mm (2") foil tape | - Securing double sided foil insulation - Sealing joints in insulation |
| Cloth duct tape | 50metres x 50mm waterproof adhesive cloth duct tape | - Essential campervan maintenance tool |
| Heat shrink | Electrical insulation heat shrink tubing | - Insulating cable joints when soldered and crimped. |
| Wood screws | 1000pcs screw box - mixed sizes from 16mm to 80mm | - All camper conversion installation projects |
| Self drive metal screws | 200pcs self drilling screw box, zinc plated - sizes 13/16/19/25/32/38mm | - Battoning out the walls ready to insulate - Installing furniture - Fitting ventilation and windows - Flooring - Securing pipework and cables underneath the van |
Bracket Materials
| Product | Image | Description | Other uses | View online |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Threaded rod |  | M8 (8mm) threaded rod (Length - 200mm x2, 300mm x2) | - Installing a water tank. | View Product |
| Rod nuts |  | M8 hexagonal nuts (x16 used) | - Installing a water tank. | View Product |
| Locking nuts |  | M8 hexagonal locking nuts (x8 used) | - Installing a water tank. | View Product |
| Eye bolt nuts | | M5 hexagonal nuts (x8 used) | - When installing the M5 eye bolts. | View Product |
| Large washers |  | M8 (8mm) x 24mm diameter flat washer (x8 used) | - Woodwork applications. - Water and gas tank installations. | View Product |
| Small washers |  | M8 (8mm) x 16mm diameter (x16 used) | - Woodwork applications. - Water and gas tank installations. | View Product |
| Eye bolts |  | M5 eye bolts (Overall length 59mm, thread length 32mm, ring inner diameter 9mm) | - We only used them when installing the heater. | View Product |
Power Tools And Accessories
| Product | Description | Other uses |
|---|---|---|
| Cordless combi drill | Dewalt 18volt combi drill with 2x batteries. | - Essential tool. - Drilling pilot holes in wood and metal. - Used as a battery screwdriver. - Uses the same batteries as the impact driver. |
| Impact driver | Dewalt 18volt impact driver with 2x batteries | - Installing self-driven screws in metal. - Making the wooden furniture. - Uses the same batteries as the combi drill. |
| Angle grinder | Bosch 240v angle grinder, 115mm disc diameter | - Making brackets for the water tank. - Repairing and cleaning rust damaged bodywork. - Cut off protruding screws, bolts and nails. |
| Metal drill bit set | Bosch 19-piece HSS metal drill set | - Pilot holes in wood to build the interior furniture. - Pilot holes for cutting out the windows and ventilation. - Underslung gas tank installation. |
| Hole saw | Good quality 70mm multi material holesaw with arbor | - Cutting sheet metal, wood and plastic. - Ideal for cutting holes in the chassis for pipework, electrical cables and vent holes. |
| Cutting paste | Metal cutting paste for use with hole saws and metal drill bits | - Water tank installation. - Underslung gas tank installation. - Windows and ventilation installation. |
| Soldering iron | 230volt soldering iron kit | - Soldering electrical wiring cables. |
| Hot air (heat) gun | 230volt heat gun for shrink wrapping | - Installing heat shrink to wiring and cables. |
PPE (Personal Protective Equipment)
| Product | Description | Other uses |
|---|---|---|
| Safety glasses | Grade F low energy impact. Clear and anti-scratch. | - General use of hand tools. - Protection from screws, materials and dust from cutting wood or metal. - Comfortably wear them all day. |
| Ear defenders | 30db Ear defenders | - When using a jigsaw to cut wood or metal. - Drilling metalwork or wood. TIP - You're less likely to be bothered or disturbed by nosy neighbours when wearing them! |
| Gloves | Work gloves, cut resistant | - Essential PPE for every stage of the camper conversion. - Help to grip when lifting heavy items. |
| Respirator | P3 half face dust mask respirator. | - Protect against fine dust particles like sawdust and metal dust when cutting. NOTE - Not suitable to protect against organic vapours and gases caused from paints and aerosols. Filters with an 'A' rating are required. |
Additional Components
| Product | Image | Description | Uses | View online |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ducting |  | 60mm APK Marine Grade Ducting | Inlet and Outlet ducting | Buy from Propex |
| T piece |  | T Piece for 60mm (65mm) Hot Air Ducting | Join ducting together to allow multiple inlets/outlet vents | Buy from Propex |
| Open/close and directional vent |  | Open Close Vent Directional and Restrictable | To direct and restrict air flowing through a vent. | Buy from Propex |
| Thermostat extension cable |  | Thermostat Extension Cable With Connectors | To extend the existing 3.5metre thermostat wiring | Contact Propex |
25 Step Campervan Heater Installation Guide
Our complete Propex campervan heater installation guide can be broken down into two sections. Section 1 involves preparing the heater for install, installing it and connecting all the appropriate wiring.
Section 2, on the other hand, has everything relating to the heater’s gas installation. Please bare in mind that when dealing with gas, your safety is the most important thing! If you don’t feel confident, get an expert to do the work for you, and get someone to check it for safety once you’re done.
Section 1: Campervan Heater Installation
Section 2: Campervan Heater Gas Installation
Section 1: Campervan Heater Installation
STAGE 1: Remove The Seat
We also removed the passenger seat to give us more space to work. However, this isn’t necessary, we just like room to spread out!
STAGE 2: Access The Floor
Later, when you install the campervan heater bracket bolts, you can’t install them anywhere along the seat base. So, re-install the seat, and mark around the seat base where it touches the floor. Doing this may seem like a faff, but it’ll really come in handy in Stage 6.
STAGE 3: Fit The Eye Bolts
The factory fitted heater brackets are ideal for mounting the heater inside your camper on a flat surface. However, we weren’t confident they were secure enough to hang the heater underneath the van.
We cut the thread length down to 10mm using an angle grinder because we could only source M5 eye bolts with a 9mm eye and a 32mm length thread. The thread can’t be too long, or it could damage the internal wiring and insulation.
STAGE 4: Mark The Bracket Holes
When marking underneath your camper, you need to be accurate, as these are the places you’ll eventually drill into your van.
If they’re not marked correctly, then the rods (which hold the heater to the campervan) won’t fit properly and you could end up with unwanted holes in the floor.
Being accurate can be tricky while holding the campervan heater in position. Alternatively, make a cardboard template of the heater to hold up. But don’t forget to include the eye bolts!
STAGE 5: Install Protective Insulation
Insulating your campervan heater helps it retain heat and protects it from harmful stone chips and other road nasties. We used some double-sided foil insulation (leftover from insulating the van).
You can see where the inlet and outlet ducts are at this stage because they’re clearly marked. However, once you insulate the heater, you’ll obscure the markings. Label them yourself, so you know which is which later.
STAGE 6 : Drill The Bracket Holes
If the pilot holes overlap with the line of the seat base, you’ll have to complete Stage 4 again. If you carry on installing, you’ll have a campervan heater, but you probably won’t get your driver’s seat back in.
STAGE 7: Make The Brackets
You’ve got about an hour now while you wait for the rust paint to dry, so, go and make yourself a cuppa! But hurry straight back, because you need to fit the M8 threaded rods to your heater.
How do I get all the nuts and washers in the right place?
Push a rod through the top eye bolt until it’s halfway between the top and bottom eye bolts. Slide along a washer, screw in two nuts and then another washer. Next, push the rod through the bottom eye bolt.
Now, add a washer and a nut to the outside of eye bolts. Spin the nuts and washers into the correct place along the rod until you have; nut, washer, eye bolt, washer, nut, BIG SPACE, nut, washer, eye bolt, washer, nut.
That’s one rod complete.
Repeat three more times!
Leave the nuts slightly loose for now, making it easier to align the rods through the holes in the van floor later on.
STAGE 8: Fit The Heater
Now, unless you’re an octopus, this step is tricky. Having a second pair of hands is ideal because you need to lift the heater, push the rods through the drilled holes while simultaneously installing nuts and washers.
But if you can’t find anyone to help you, don’t fret! Use another car jack, a box or a stool to hold the heater in place.
This is where your helper (either human or inanimate) will come in. While the heater is in place, with the rods through the holes, your human helper needs to do the next step, or something needs to hold the heater in place while you do it yourself.
Tighten the nuts enough to hold the heater in place, but not so tight that you can’t move it around.
Before tightening any nuts underneath the van, make sure the heater is level. Because the van is on jacks, it won’t be level. So either:
1. Use a straight edge to check the heater is level with the bottom of the van
2. Remove the jacks and ensure the heater is roughly parallel with the floor.
Also, leave a small gap of a few millimetres between the heater and the chassis, as this will reduce vibration noise when the heater is running.
Over time, the vibrations may loosen the nuts slightly. So, we recommend adding ‘check heater nuts’ to your monthly campervan checklist. Better safe than sorry!
STAGE 9: Drill The Duct Holes
Once you’ve fitted your campervan heater underneath your van, you need to drill duct holes for the inlet and outlet pipes. If you’re unsure about where your duct holes need to be, read this post before beginning this step.
As the ducting is 60mm, you’ll cut holes that are 70mm with a hole saw.
Before doing any drilling, cover the blue duct nozzles with tape to stop any bits from going into (and potentially damaging!) the heater.
For best results, drill on speed 1 (slow) and use a cutting compound to keep the hole saw cool and protect the hole saw’s teeth.
Also apply weatherproof sealant between the wood flooring and metal floor to ensure no moisture or other nasties can sneak in.
STAGE 10: Insulate The Ducting
For your campervan heater to work effectively, it must retain as much heat as possible. So, insulate the ducting. For best results (and to make your life easier!), insulate the ducting before installing it in your camper.
STAGE 11: Install The Ducting
Make sure you get the ducting pipes the correct way round. Remember:
Outlet = blows air out.
Inlet = draws in air.
If the ducting pipes are the same length. mark which ducting is which inside the van so you don’t get them mixed up.
Wherever you put the inlet and outlet ducts, make sure they won’t ever be blocked or obstructed.
STAGE 12: Combustion Air Inlet Flue
The combustion air inlet flue on the campervan heater connects to the flexible black hose.
The Propex manual states:
The minimum length of the combustion air flue must be 1m, and a maximum length of 2m.
Basically, the flue provided in the kit is 1m, so do not shorten it.
The combustion air inlet flue and the exhaust flue must both point in the same direction, and the open ends of each flue must be 500mm away from each other.
We positioned the black combustion air inlet hose tight against the chassis facing the rear of the van to reduce the risk of any debris getting inside.
STAGE 13: Exhaust Flue
The exhaust flue hose is metallic and more rigid than the black combustion hose.
As we said in the previous step, the exhaust flue and the combustion air inlet flue must point in the same direction. The open ends of each flue must be 500mm away from each other. The exhaust flue should also have a slight downwards slope to prevent water from getting in.
The minimum length of the exhaust flue hose is 0.75m, and the maximum length is 2m
The exhaust flue hose will get very hot, so route it around the chassis avoiding gas pipes and wires.
STAGE 14: Control Panel Positioning
Position the control panel first, before you route the wiring; just remember that the heater wiring is only 3.5m long. If you plan to put it further away, you’ll need additional wiring, so contact Propex directly to see if they can help.
The control panel has a built-in thermostat to regulate the temperature in your campervan. For accurate temperature control, mount it away from the outlet duct, direct sunlight, and draughts.
The Propex heater manual states to position the controller about 1.5 metres from the floor. However, if you have a low roof, this would mean fitting it on the ceiling, which we wouldn’t recommend! So instead, focus on finding a cool spot, out of direct sunlight, about halfway up the wall.
a) Remove the panel of the wall and use a jigsaw to cut a hole.
b) Leave the panel in place and use a hole saw to cut out a small section.
STAGE 15: Control Panel Wiring
We routed the cable through the chassis via a hole we’d previously made to route the gas pipes and water pipes. This hole is 50mm in diameter and uses a gas drop out vent (with the vent hatching cut out) as a way of protecting the pipes and wiring.
The electrical connectors will only connect one way; you can’t get it wrong! Simply push them together, and they’ll click into place.
STAGE 16: Heater Power Supply
For the heater to work, it needs a supply cable to give it power. Although the cable itself isn’t supplied, the kit includes:
Fuse: 5 amp fuse
Fuse carrier: holds the fuse
2 spade connectors: connect the fuse carrier to the cable.
In Vandercamp, we already had a 12V fuse box. So we connected the supply cable directly into a spare way (fuse in the 12V box). Most likely, you’ll have a 12V fuse box too. If so, you can discard the fuse parts listed above.
The campervan heater supply cable needs to be sufficient to carry 2.5 Amps at 12 volts d.c. (direct current). Anything less, the cable could become damaged and could cause a fire.
So sizing the supply cable is really important and would usually require some in-depth cable calculations.
But don’t worry! Jolly loves geeking out with this stuff, so he’s made you this handy table:
| Cable Length (Metres) | Cable Size (mm²) |
|---|---|
| 0 - 2 | 0.5 |
| 2 - 5 | 1.0 |
| 5 - 7 | 1.5 |
| 7 - 10 | 2.0 |
| NOTE - The cable calculations are based on: (i) using PVC stranded flex as the supply cable. (ii) a 3-4% Volt Drop. |
|
According to the current electrical regulations:
| Electrical supply | Positive (+) | Negative (-) |
| DC (direct current) Wiring | Red | Black |
| AC (alternating current) wiring | Brown | Blue |
| These are the European wiring colours stated in the BS7671 electrical regulations. If your outside the EU, your electrical regulations may state different colours. | ||
Although we advise following the correct wiring colours, you can use any colour, as long as you label the cables positive/negative, to ensure you won’t get them mixed up!
We connected the red (positive) heater wire to a brown wire and the white (negative) heater wire to a blue wire.
So the red/brown wires were marked positive (+) and the white/blue ones marked negative (-).
Section 2: Campervan Heater Gas Installation
We’ve included as much information as possible, but please remember that our advice isn’t certified, as we’re not gas engineers.
Please refer to the current campervan gas regulations – updated to 2022
Nemi had a lot more questions in this section, so there are more Nemi help containers. The same as earlier, if you’re a clever clogs who doesn’t need them just skip ahead to the next step.
STAGE 17A: New Gas Pipe Installation
To supply a Propex campervan heater with gas, an 8mm gas pipe needs installing to link the heater with the gas supply (via a regulator).
If your camper doesn’t have any gas installed yet, you’ll need to fit the gas pipe to the heater when you carry out the gas installation.
STAGE 17B: Additional Gas Pipe Installation
If you already have gas fitted in your camper, you’ll need to connect your Propex heater to the existing gas system.
We’ve based these instructions on the gas system we have in Vandercamp. If you want more detail on this, use the diagram above as a reference.
Test your existing system for gas leaks and get any problems sorted. If you discover a leak later (once the gas for the heater is installed) then you can eliminate the bit you’ve already tested. Jump ahead to Stage 23 for help.
Where should I connect onto the existing gas pipe?
You need to connect the new gas pipe (to supply gas to your campervan heater) after the regulator (and the manifold, if you have one).
The regulator regulates the pressure of the gas (at 30 Mbar).
The manifold (AKA isolator) allows you to control whether the gas to your heater is on or off.
How do I use a pipe cutter?
Open the pipe cutter wide enough so the pipe will sit on the rollers.
Adjust the cutter wheel until the cutter is touching the mark on the pipe.
Rotate the cutter around the pipe. As it starts cutting, it will begin to feel looser.
Tighten the cutting wheel a few turns and then rotate the cutter around the pipe again.
Continue rotating and gently tightening until you’ve cut the pipe.
What’s the best way to trim off the PVC coating?
Mark approximately 10mm from both of the cut ends. Using the pipe cutter process described above, cut the protective coating. Make sure you only trim the PVC coating and don’t cut into the pipe.
Remove these 10mm coating pieces, exposing the copper pipe.
Clean the cut ends with wire wool to leave a smooth, clean edge.
How do I fit a compression tee piece?
Undo the compression tee piece; the tee piece body, three compression nuts and three olives.
Push a compression nut onto both ends of the exposed cut pipe.
Then, push an olive onto both ends of the pipe.
Insert one end of the exposed pipe into the tee piece body.
Slide the olive up until it’s touching the tee piece body.
Now, tighten the compression nut by hand
Repeat this process with the other end of the exposed pipe, so the two cut ends of the pipe are connected with the compression tee piece.
STAGE 18: Bend The Gas Pipe
You now need to install a gas pipe to link the compression tee piece to the campervan heater. You may need to bend the pipe to route it underneath your camper. Luckily, the pipe is made from copper, which is a very malleable material.
Although you’ll be able to bend the pipe by hand, make sure not to bend it too much. Overbending could cause creases to form or the pipe to close.
Long bends are more straightforward and less likely to damage the copper pipe than sharp bends.
Now, the proper method of bending copper pipe is with a pipe bending tool. However, as it wasn’t cost-effective for us, we used a less professional approach of using a cylindrical-shaped object. (A 63mm hole saw works perfectly!)
Follow these instructions for our bodge way of bending a pipe.
– Lay the pipe flat on a stable surface. Put the hole saw next to the mark you made.
– Don’t bend the pipe in one go, as this may cause it to close inside.
– Instead, slowly bend the pipe in one spot by approximately 2mm, then move the hole saw along the pipe by 10mm and bend again. Keep moving the hole saw back and forward along the pipe, bending it gradually and slowly.
If you overbend the pipe, use the same method as above, but put the hole saw outside the bend.
The trick is to be slow and steady to avoid creasing and closing the pipe. If it creases or closes, it’s game over, I’m afraid. You’ll have to start over with a new pipe.
Due to the positioning of our heater, we required two 90 degree bends in the pipe. If you also need multiple bends, do one bend then and check the pipe fits correctly before moving onto the next bend.
STAGE 19: Fit A Gas Shut Off Valve
A shut-off valve, known as a gas cock, needs installing on the gas pipe for safety and maintenance. It needs to be close to the campervan heater and somewhere that’s easily accessible. Ours is in easy reach below the driver’s door, and the van doesn’t need to be jacked up to reach it.
STAGE 20: Fit The Gas Pipe
At this stage, the new gas pipe is ready to connect to the heater. The pipe will connect to the “gas in” compression fitting, which is mounted at the rear of the Propex campervan heater.
STAGE 21: Secure The Gas Pipe
We told you to leave the compression nuts loose on the tee piece, the gas cock, and the “gas in” point. This is so you can secure the gas pipe under the van; if they were all tight, the gas pipe would be rigid, and you wouldn’t be able to move it into position.
STAGE 22: Gas Pipe Protection
Some gas pipes are unprotected, exposed copper, while others have a protective white PVC coating.
STAGE 23: Test For Leaks
Once the gas pipe is installed and connected, you need to test the system for leaks. We’ve included as much information as possible, but please remember that our advice isn’t certified, as we’re not gas engineers.
When doing anything with gas, be super sensible. Conduct the test in an open space, don’t have naked flames and if you don’t feel confident, ask a professional to do it!
For safety, you must get it checked afterwards. The Propex manual Step 11 states:
The gas soundness check must be carried out by an accredited LPG engineer and a test certificate issued.
If you’re jumping in here, turn the gas supply off and run all gas appliances, releasing gas in the pipes.
When installing the gas in your campervan, you need a point where you can connect a gas test gauge. Typically, this will be a “gas test nipple”, however in Vandercamp, we used the rear gas cooker connector.
Despite what could be used, we’ll refer to the testing point in this stage as the “gas test nipple”.
Testing
The campervan gas regulations BS EN 1949:2011 + A1:2013 state the gas system should be tested to 5x the working pressure. Therefore, a campervan would be tested to 150 mbar of pressure because the regulator is rated at 30 mbar.
The process below explains how to test your gas system to 30 mbar of pressure (DIY method). A qualified gas engineer reassured us that testing the system to 30 mbar is sufficient.
> Please refer to the current campervan gas regulations <
However, it’s advised the system is inspected by a qualified Gas Safe engineer once completed.
STAGE 24: Fix The Leak
We’ve included as much information as possible, but please remember that our advice isn’t certified, as we’re not gas engineers.
Please refer to the current campervan gas regulations – updated to 2022
If the reading has reduced, there’s potentially a leak in the system.
SLOWLY decreasing pressure reading: You have a small gas leak.
QUICKLY decreasing pressure reading: You have a sizeable gas leak.
Whether you’ve got a small or large gas leak, stay safe. Complete this step in an open space, and for goodness sake, don’t light a fag! When trying to find the leak, have a sensible person switch the gas on and off for you, rather than leaving the it on the whole time.
You can find the leak using leak detection spray or the soapy water method described below.
There’s a process of elimination when finding a gas leak. Start with the safest options with the gas still off:
Elimination Stage 1:
Double-check all your gas appliances are switched off.
Make sure your compression fittings and joints are all tight.
Re-test the system following Stage 23:5 – 23:12.
Oh dear…you’re back again, which means the pressure is still dropping.
Elimination Stage 2:
If possible, isolate (stop gas getting to) some areas of your gas system by switching off manifolds, isolators or gas cocks.
Make sure you’re not also isolating your gas tester.
Re-test the system following Stage 23:5 – 23:12.
No leak = Result! You know the leak is somewhere in the ‘isolated’ part of the system.
Leak = Also a result! You know the leak is in the area where the gas is flowing. However, once this leak is found, confirm there isn’t another leak in the isolated area by retesting the whole system.
So, you’ve confirmed which area has the gas leak, now you’ve just got to find the blighter!
STILL no luck?!
We recommend calling a certified gas engineer rather than struggle on. Remember to also get them to issue a gas safety certificate once they’re done.
Fixing a compression joint leak: Unfortunately, you’ll need to return to Stage 17:5 to re-install it. You’ve tightened all the nuts by this stage, which will have squashed the olive onto the pipe. You’ll need to cut the pipe where it’s been squashed by the olive, and you’ll need new olives too.
Fixing a pipework leak: Replace the piece of pipework.
Once the leak has been found and repaired, re-test the system following Stage 23:5 – 23:13.
STAGE 25: Test The Heater
The temperature control knob doesn’t change the temperature of the air from the heater. It sets the ambient air temperature in your camper.
If it fails to ignite, the red LED on the control panel will flash. Refer to the troubleshooting section in the manual for gas lockout resetting.
The fan will continue to run for three minutes to allow the heater to cool down. The air from the outlet hose gradually cools.
The gas soundness check must be carried out by an accredited LPG engineer and a test certificate issued.
Recap
Well done, you clever thing! You’ve successfully installed a Propex HS2211 campervan heater using our 25 stage guide. Did you find the hints and tips helpful? Or is there something else you need us to include? Drop us a comment or a message, and we’ll get back to you as quickly as we can.
Now you’ve installed your heater, you’ll have peace of mind knowing you’ll be cosier in colder climates and snug on your winter adventures.
Now, hop to it, and go and warm those tootsies in your toasty camper.
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