Underslung LPG gas tank
Build Guides

25 Practical Steps To Your Underslung Gas Tank Installation

Your underslung gas tank installation! Maybe you’re a novice DIY-er feeling apprehensive about undertaking such a scary challenge. Or perhaps you’re confident with tools but worried about making a mistake that could lead to a serious gas leak. Maybe you’re a fearless handyman (or handyperson!) but don’t know where to begin?

Whoever you are and whatever your current anxiety levels, we’re here to support you in safely installing an underslung LPG tank on your campervan.

When we carried out our underslung gas tank installation, we followed the Autogas manual, but we struggled and felt frustrated by not having detailed step-by-step instructions. At these times, we contacted Autogas, who helped us solve these issues.

This post combines the Autogas installation instructions, Autogas technical support’s additional help, and our own insights and experience. So even if you’re a DIY newbie, you’ll be able to follow our tried and tested step by step guide to installing your underslung LPG tank.

Additionally, there are super helpful tips, hints and notes throughout the build guide. Just look out for these icons:

Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


Either we’ve got some extra information to share with you, or we’ll let you know what we did in our gas tank installation.


Handy hints and nifty tips from Jolly, the DIY master.


STOP!! These are build notes that must not be overlooked. They relate to build steps that could impact your safety and could damage your van if not done correctly.

This post may contain affiliate links. Meaning, if you make a purchase after clicking one, we may earn some commission. This pocket money will help Vandercamp Adventures continue to grow at no extra cost to you. It’s a win win situation!! Learn More…

Our Underslung LPG Tank

16 Litre LPG Underslung Tank Kit

Autogas components for a VW T5 LPG gas tank installation kit
  • Red vapour tanks are designed to be installed underneath your van, saving on precious living space.
  • External tanks allow any leaked gas to escape outside, reducing the risk of gas build up instead your van.
  • The Autogas brackets are straight forward to install and their design exceeds the industry standards.
  • Red vapour tanks are allowed in the eurotunnel. Eurotunnel legal information can be found here.
  • No risk of being refused to refill the gas unlike refillable gas bottles.
  • Underslung gas tanks ensure the weight is low to the ground for safer handling and weight distribution.
  • European filling point adapters are available, covering every country in Europe.
  • Many components are available to suit the configuration you require for your van and needs.

LPG Vapour Tank Specification

Tank measurements – 200mm x 585mm

Tank Weight empty – 12.9kg

LPG in litres @ 80% – 12.8ltr

LPG in kg @ 80% – 6.4kg

Overall weight – 25kg

Gas Tank Kit Components

Product DefinitionDescription
1)LPG Tank 16-LitreCaratank 16-Litre (12.9kg)
2)Bracket mountsFlat to floor tank bracket 200mm (pair)
3)Cradle hoop bracketsVW T5 cradle hoop fixing brackets (pair)
4)Rubber stripsWeather shield rubber strips for cradle hoop bracket
5)Filler Hose1.5 Metre filler hose
6)LED readout gaugeFlat, 9 LED readout gauge
7)Sender gaugeGauge sender 0-90 Ohms
8)Regulator30 Mbr regulator (M20 x 8mm)
9)Pigtail hose750mm Stainless steel pigtain hose (M20 nut)
10)Filling pointUK bayonet filling point for 3/4" JIC hose
11)Filler point bracketLong universal mounting bracket
12)Mounting plateFiller point mounting plate with screws and nuts
13)Square box cover (Unused)Black square filler point cover
14)M10 bolts (long)Bracket mount bolts (M10 x 2)
15)M10 bolts (short)Bracket mount and cradle hoop bolts (M10 x 6)
16)M10 nylon nutsBracket bolt nylon nuts (M10 x 8)
17)M10 bolt washersBracket bolt washers (M10 x 18)
18)Spacer tubesBracket mount spacer tubes (x2)
19)Fixings8mm Pipe clips, screws and metal self driving screws
View the complete gas tank kit
Additional ComponentsImageDescription
20)Circular filler point mounting boxUK filling point housing box (circular)
8mm plastic coated copper gas pipeTo connect the cooker and heater to the regulator (external use).
22)8mm copper gas pipeTo connect the cooker and heater to the regulator (internal use).
23)2 Branch LPG ManifoldTurn the gas on/off to our cooker and heater from inside the van.
24)Inline gas valve 8mmTurn on/off the external gas cooker point.
25)European travel LPG filler adapter setAllow us to fill up with LPG anywhere in Europe.

Time And Cost

Our overall timescale – gas tank installation and commissioning

1 day

Our overall costs – kit and additional components


But we had these advantages:

  • Lots of DIY experience (Jolly’s).
  • Boxes full of tools (Jolly’s).
  • The use of a vehicle lift thanks to a friend.
  • Great technical support from the team at Autogas 2000 Ltd.

Gas Tank Installation Plans

Volkswagen T5 underslung gas tank installation plans


Tools, Materials and Accessories

These tables list all the tools, materials and accessories we used on our gas tank installation.

Most of the items listed can be used on other campervan build projects, these are noted in the ‘other uses’ column.

Essential Tools

ProductDescriptionOther uses
Tape measureStanley 5m/16ft tape measure- Essential tool for use throughout the van build.
Metal filesRolson 2pc metal file set- Filing any cut metal e.g. windows and ventilation.
- Filing any protruding bolts and screws.
Socket set39 piece ratchet socket set- Essential part of the van maintenance toolkit.
- Water tank installation.
Screwdriver73 piece screwdriver set inc. magnetic ratchet wrench- Essential van build tool. Used throughout the build.
Spanners- Engine maintenance or repair.
- Heater installation.
- Water tank installation.
Adjustable spannerAdjustable spanner wrench- Water tank installation.
- Commonly used tool for mechanical jobs.
Adjustable pliers250mm Adjustable Multigrip Pliers - Essential van maintenance tool.
- Installing compression fittings, nuts and bolts.
- Water and gas tank installations.
- Window and ventilation installations.
Right angle square edgeRight angled square- Installing furniture.
- Kitchen fitting.
- Drawer making.
Spirit level10" spirit level- Furniture building.
- Kitchen building.
- Van leveling.
Ratchet strapRatchet strap with hooks (8 metre x 50mm)- Securing items on the roof.
- Handy tool to keep on the van.
Hammer20oz hammer- Essential van build tool. Used throughout the build.
HacksawMetal/Plastic hacksaw 12" (300mm)- Cutting plastic and copper pipework.
- Cutting metal bars, bolts and screws.
Torque wrench spannerTorque wrench spanner set- Mechanical maintenance work.
ProtractorProtractor tool/Angle measurer- Only used for the gas tank installation.
Wire woolSteel wire wool- Prepping wood ready to paint or oil.
- Cleaning any metalwork for painting.
- Installing copper pipework.
Electrical multimeterAC/DC digital multimeter 600 Volt- Electrical maintenance.
- Battery installation.
- All electrical installations.
KnifeRetractable knife- Essential van build tool. Used throughout the build.
Marker penSharpie pen set- Essential van build tool. Used throughout the build.
BrushHard scrubbing brush- Prepping the underside of the van.


ProductDescriptionOther uses
Cable ties300mm x 4.8mm black heavy duty- Essential material for all situations
CableAlarm cable (0.20mm(squared))- Electrical installation.
DegreaserHeavy duty degreaser- Window and ventilation installation.
- Insulation installation.
Stone chip paintHammerite stone chip paint spray- To protect any metalwork installed underneath the van.
Cable lug (ring crimp)4mm red ring crimp/lug- Electrical wiring.
Adaptable box150 x 110 x 100mm plastic adaptable boxN/A
Self drive metal screws4.8mm x 38mm self driving screws- Battoning out the walls ready to insulate
- Installing furniture
- Fitting ventilation and windows
- Flooring
- Securing pipework and cables underneath the van

Power Tools And Accessories

ProductDescriptionOther uses
Cordless combi drillDewalt 18volt combi drill with 2x batteries.- Essential tool.
- Drilling pilot holes in wood and metal.
- Used as a battery screwdriver.
- Uses the same batteries as the impact driver.
Impact driverDewalt 18volt impact driver with 2x batteries- Installing self-driven screws in metal.
- Making the wooden furniture.
- Uses the same batteries as the combi drill.
Metal drill bit set (5, 10 & 12mm required)Bosch 19-piece HSS metal drill set- Pilot holes in wood to build the interior furniture.
- Pilot holes for cutting out the windows and ventilation.
- Heater installation.
70mm Hole saw Good quality 70mm multi material holesaw with arbor- Cutting sheet metal, wood and plastic.
- Ideal for cutting holes in the chassis for pipework, electrical cables and vent holes.
- Heater ducting installation.
Cutting compound pasteMetal cutting paste for use with hole saws and metal drill bits- Water tank installation.
- Heater installation.
- Windows and ventilation installation.
Soldering iron230volt soldering iron kit- Soldering electrical wiring cables.

PPE (Personal Protective Equipment)

ProductDescriptionOther uses
Safety glasses Grade F low energy impact.
Clear and anti-scratch.
- General use of hand tools.
- Protection from screws, materials and dust from cutting wood or metal.
- Comfortably wear them all day.
Ear defenders30db Ear defenders- When using a jigsaw to cut wood or metal.
- Drilling metalwork or wood.

TIP - You're less likely to be bothered or disturbed by nosy neighbours when wearing them!
GlovesWork gloves, cut resistant- Essential PPE for every stage of the camper conversion.
- Help to grip when lifting heavy items.
RespiratorP3 half face dust mask respirator.

- Protect against fine dust particles like sawdust and metal dust when cutting.

NOTE - Not suitable to protect against organic vapours and gases caused from paints and aerosols. Filters with an 'A' rating are required.

25 Step Gas Tank Installation Guide

All the information in this build guide is based on our experience installing an underslung gas tank onto our Volkswagen T5 camper van. However, if you don’t have a VW T5, don’t go! The installation process itself will be exactly the same.

The build guide is broken down into 25 stages. Each stage covers a different part of the gas tank installation process and is broken down further into simple steps, making it super easy to follow.

If you really don’t feel confident, we advise you seek the help of a professional installer. However, whether you install campervan gas yourself or seek help, you must get an approved gas engineer to check it for safety once you are done. 

Find a Gas Safe registered engineer.

Jump To

Stage 1: Spray The Tank

The tank has a red paint coating to protect it from the outside environment. However, we advise spraying it with stone chip protection paint to protect against stone chips, salt, dampness, and rust.

Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


The Autogas manual advises ‘the tank and fixings are sprayed afterwards’. However, we recommend also spraying the tank before you install it under the van because:

1: It’s awkward to access the entire tank once it’s installed.

2: It adds another layer of protection. 

  • 1:1 – Support the tank on its valve cover. This will enable you to spray the entire tank, ensuring it won’t fall over and get damaged.
  • 1:2 – Clean and degrease the area to be sprayed (red part) using a degreaser spray and leave to dry completely. Grease (from fingers) and dirt will prevent the paint from sticking properly.
  • 1:3 – Spray the tank following the manufacturer’s instructions for correct application and drying times. 
  • 1:4 – You may need to apply several coats to completely cover the tank. The more coats you do, the better protected it will be. 
  • 1:5 – Allow enough time for the paint to dry thoroughly before installing the gas tank. Hammerite recommends a drying time of 3-5 hours between coats.
  • 1:6 – Once the paint is completely dry, it’s ready to be installed. 
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


Don’t worry if the stone chip protection paint gets scratched when installing. You’ll give it another coat once the installation is complete.

Stage 2: Access To Fit The Tank

  • 2:1 – To have enough access underneath the van to fit an underslung LPG tank, lift it using a car jack or a vehicle ramp.
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


We were lucky that a friend of a friend could lend us their vehicle ramp for a day to install our heater. (It’s not what you know…)


Ask around independent car garages, as they may lend you their ramp. They might charge you a small fee for the pleasure, but you could find yourself a friendly mechanic who may also lend you their tools!

  • 2:2 – If you’re using a car jack, ensure the van is on a flat, hard surface. Make sure the handbrake is secure, and place ‘chocks’ underneath the front and rear wheels to prevent the van from rolling away. 
  • 2:3- Lift the van, so you’ve got enough room to work under it.  

Stage 3: Tank Location Preparation

The underslung tank kit we installed is specifically designed to fit a Volkswagen Transporter T5 van. 

Autogas 2000 Leisure Ltd provide kits that will fit different makes and models of campervans. See the complete list here.

The VW T5 brackets are designed to fit the tank between the rear wheels and in front of the spare wheel.

Although you can install the LPG tank anywhere underneath your campervan, the brackets are designed to be used in a specific location. Therefore, if you’re installing the tank somewhere else, you may need to make custom brackets.

The tank needs to be installed away from the exhaust system, suspension and any other moving parts that could cause damage to it.

  • 3:1 – Your van may have plastic covers installed to protect its underside. Remove them (wherever you’re installing the tank), revealing the underside metalwork of the van. These covers are typically held in place with screws.
  • 3:2 – The tank brackets (in the T5 kit) are designed to fit between the two floor beams in front of the spare wheel bracket. 
  • 3:3 – Using a brush, remove any dirt and debris from the area where the tank will be installed.
  • 3:4 – Hold the tank into position between the two floor beams to give you an idea of where the tank will be installed, and ensure there aren’t any obstructions. 
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


The exhaust heat shield prevents the tank from being installed in the centre of the van, so it will be off centre.

Stage 4: Mark The Brackets

Whichever tank kit you bought, the brackets will be designed to fit into a specific location. However, you will still need to measure, mark and drill the fixing holes for securing the brackets to your van.

  • 4:1 – Measure the width of the tank and note the measurement. 
  • 4:2 – Remove the M8 nut and bolt from both hoop brackets. 
  • 4:3 – Place the hoop brackets around the heater.
  • 4:4 – Leave a gap between the bracket and the valve casing (so you can move the tank when positioning it later).
A: Equal distance between the hoop bracket and the end of the tank.
B: Gap between the hoop bracket and the valve casing.
  • 4:5 – Measure (and take note of) the distance between the two brackets, taking the measurement from the middle of the hoop. 
  • 4:6 – Underneath your van, mark the halfway point between the exhaust heat shield and the suspension spring. This point indicates where the middle of the gas tank will be.
  • 4:7 – Using this halfway point as a guide, mark the tank width measurement onto the floor beams.
  • 4:8 – Using the bracket measurement from Stage 4:5 and the halfway point as a guide, mark the bracket measurements onto the floor beams.
  • 4:9 – Remove the hoop brackets from the tank.
  • 4:10 – Hold the tank up to the markings you’ve just made on the floor beams. 
  • 4:11 – Check that the tank will fit without being too close to the exhaust or suspension. Also, check there are no other obstructions. 
  • 4:12 – Position the bracket mounts onto the markings with the ‘T’ facing the rear of the van.
  • 4:13 – The bracket mounts need to be square with each other. So, using a right-angle square, make sure the brackets are square with the floor beams.
  • 4:14 – Mark the bracket mount fixing holes (two on each bracket mount) onto the floor beams. Also, draw around the brackets, making it easier to align and fit them later. 

Stage 5: Fit The Bracket Mounts

  • 5:1 – Drill the four fixing holes (2x each bracket) using a 12mm metal drill bit. Ensure the position of the holes are accurate; otherwise, the bracket bolts may not fit through.
  • 5:2 – File any sharp bits of metal from the holes.
  • 5:3 – Insert the (2x) chassis spacer tubing into the fixing holes in the thicker chassis floor beam. 
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


The tubing is designed to stop the floor beam from buckling as you tighten the bracket bolts. It should be pushed in all the way, so it’s the same depth as the floor beam.

  • 5:4 – Hold the bracket mounts into position.
  • 5:5 – Check the fixing points of the bracket mounts are touching both floor beams. If there are any gaps between the bracket and floor beam, you’ll need a square washer (provided) to fit into the gap (we’ll come to this in a moment).

Fit the bracket mounts to the floor beams using the nuts, bolts, round washers and (if necessary) square washers from the kit.

  • 5:6 – Place a round washer onto the longer M10 bolt.
  • 5:7 – With the bracket in position, push the bolt through the bracket hole and chassis spacer tubing.
  • 5:8 – Place another round washer and an M10 nut on the other end.
  • 5:9 – Tighten by hand.
  • 5:10 – Place a round washer onto the shorter M10 bolt and push it through the other bracket fixing hole and floor beam.
  • 5:11 – Place another round washer and nylon M10 nut onto the end.
  • 5:12 – Tighten the nut by hand.
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


You need a torque wrench (either a torque spanner wrench or torque socket wrench) to tighten the nut to a specific Nm (newton meter) setting. This prevents you from overtightening, which could cause damage.

  • 5:13 – Using a 17mm spanner and a socket wrench (one of them must be a torque tool), tighten all the nuts and bolts to the manufacturer recommended 40-45Nm.
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


Although you can do it without a torque wrench, it’s a bit of a faff involving measurements and calculations. So, we recommend hiring or borrowing a torque wrench. Tool hire companies will hire out tools for half a day to a few days. It’s a small price to pay to be safe.

Stage 6: Fit The Hoop Brackets

Fit the hoop brackets to the bracket mounts using the nuts, bolts and washers provided.

  • 6:1 – Place a washer onto the 4 remaining M10 bolts.
  • 6:2 – Hold one of the hoop brackets onto the bracket mount and line up the fixing holes.
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


The hoop brackets only attach to the bracket mounts one way.

  • 6:3 – Push a bolt (with washer) through the brackets.
  • 6:4 – Fit another round washer and an M10 nut to the end of the bolt.
  • 6:5 – Tighten the nut by hand.
  • 6:6 – Do this for all 4 bolts (2 per bracket).
  • 6:7 – Tighten the bolts and nuts to the manufacturer recommended 40-45Nm.

Stage 7: Lift The Tank Into The Brackets

Lifting the tank into the brackets can be pretty tricky, depending on how much room you have under the van to work. Therefore, we recommend having a second pair of hands here to help lift and manoeuvre the tank into position.

  • 7:1 – Remove the valve casing cover by unscrewing the black knob.
  • 7:2 – Make sure the tank is the right way up by looking at the ‘Top’ marking around the clock face.
  • 7:3 – Slide the tank into one of the hoops, then slide the other end of the tank into the other hoop bracket. Carefully open the hoop if you need more space to slide the tank in.
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


Don’t worry if you scratch some of the new stone chip paint. You’ll give the tank another coat later.

  • 7:4 – With the tank sitting in the brackets, make sure it has clearance from the exhaust and suspension. 
Distance between the gas tank and the exhaust heat shield when the tank is in the hoop brackets.


Be mindful that while the van is jacked up, the rear wheel suspension arm will be in a slightly different position to when it’s on the ground.

SLOWLY lower the van onto the ground, continuously checking the tank has clearance from all suspension components.

If any part of the suspension is likely to touch the tank, STOP lowering the van as you could damage either the tank or suspension. Try to move the gas tank over in the bracket. If you can’t, jack the van back up and move the mounting brackets.

  • 7:5 – Fit the weather shield rubber strips between the tank and the hoop bracket. This will protect the tank from the metal bracket and hold it securely in position.

Stage 8: Position The Tank

The tank has to be positioned 105 degrees from vertical. (This is so the filler cut off valve will shut off the gas when it reaches 80% of its capacity. Otherwise, it could result in dangerous overfilling.)

Because of the weight of the tank, the hoop brackets will have sagged slightly. You’ve now got to close this gap and bolt it to secure the tank. While keeping the tank at 105 degrees (we’ll get to this in a mo!), you’ll need to lift it and secure the hoop brackets.

To help, use a ratchet strap to hold the tank in the brackets. This makes securing the brackets easier and holds the tank in the correct position throughout.

Example of the ratchet strap holding the tank in position (at this stage your tank will have the valve casing cover removed).
  • 8:1 – Put a ratchet strap around the tank and the chassis.
  • 8:2 – Tighten the ratchet strap so the tank is held securely in position and won’t move on its own but can still be twisted by hand.
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


To position the tank to 105 degrees, the van needs to be level (whether on a ramp/lift or the floor).

  • 8:3 – Hold a spirit level vertically against the valve casing with the cover removed.
  • 8:4 – Twist the tank until the (vertical) bubble in the spirit level is in the centre of the indicator. The tank is now at 90 degrees from vertical.
Underslung gas tank at 90 degrees from vertical.
  • 8:5 – Hold a protractor onto the casing where the spirit level was positioned. The line you will be reading from is the horizontal line (now reading 90 degrees).
  • 8:6 – Move the tank, so the casing starts to face SLIGHTLY downwards.
  • 8:7 – Holding the protractor in the same position, place the spirit level on the centre point of the protractor and position it horizontally, so the bubble is central. 
  • 8:8 – Now follow the central protractor point, along the spirit level to the degree measurement number. Hopefully, the measurement will be 105 degrees (3-4 o’clock). If not, twist the tank until it is.
Underslung gas tank at 105 degrees from vertical.
  • 8:9 – Make sure the weather shield rubber strips are still in position between the tank and hoop brackets. However, if they’ve moved, reposition them and check the tank is still at 105 degrees.
  • 8:10 – Tighten the ratchet strap so the tank can’t move.
  • 8:11 – Double-check the tank is still at 105 degrees, as it may move as you tighten the ratchet strap.

Stage 9: Fix The Tank In Position

  • 9:1 – Jack up the van (if you lowered it to the ground).
  • 9:2 – Reinstall the M8 nuts and bolts you removed from the hoop brackets in Stage 4:2 ensuring there’s a washer at both ends.
  • 9:4 – The tank is now secure in the correct position, so remove the ratchet strap.

Stage 10: Route The Filler Hose

The filler hose is a 1.5 metre, flexible, high-pressure hose with factory fitted nuts on each end. These nuts attach to the tank filler point (straight nut) and the other to the hose filling point (90˚ nut). 

This hose must not be shortened or altered in any way. Subsequently, you’re restricted as to where you can install the filling point.

Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


The position of our tank allowed us to install our filling point at the rear of the van.

  • 10:1 – Fit the ‘straight nut’ end of the hose onto the underslung gas tank filler point via the hole in the tank casing. Now, twist the nut on by hand so it’s secure but not completely tightened.
  • 10:2 – With the hose attached to the tank, you can work out where to install the filling point. 
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


Be mindful that the hose needs to be routed underneath the van, avoiding anything that will cause damage to it by rubbing or cutting (sharp edges).

  • 10:3 – Route the filler hose to where the fill point will be installed. You can loosely secure it with cables ties to hold it in position; however, don’t permanently secure the hose yet.

Stage 11: Filling Point

The filling point is where you will fill the tank with LPG. It is specifically designed to withstand the high pressures involved when filling the tank.

The filling point needs to be mounted securely onto the chassis of the van and easily accessible to attach the LPG pump gun.

Although it can be mounted underneath the van, we mounted ours in the rear bumper, protecting it from damage (unless someone drives into the back of us!). It sits flush with the bumper (rather than protruding from anywhere), and it’s also easily accessible.

The filling point is made up of 4 parts:

  1. The filling point with a non-return valve.
  2. Long universal mounting bracket.
  3. Mounting plate screws and nuts.
  4. Black square box cover (to protect the filler point).

We didn’t use the black square box cover because the filling point is installed in the bumper. Therefore, we had to purchase a circular filling point housing box from the LPG shop.

Stage 12: Assemble The Mounting Bracket

The mounting bracket has a hole at one end for the filling point to attach to. It can be bent and drilled to fix the filling point into the correct position.

  • 12:1 – Fit the mounting plate onto the rear of the filling point.
  • 12:2 – Push the threaded end of the filling point through the bracket hole and secure it into place using the 4x screws and nuts provided.

Stage 13: Filling Point Bumper Hole

Before the bracket is bent and mounted, you need to drill a hole in the bumper. Once drilled, the filling point can be aligned with the centre of the hole and the bracket marked where it needs to be bent.

  • 13:1 – Attach the filler hose to the filling point with the 90-degree nut end. Tighten it by hand.
  • 13:2 – Holding the bracket, position the filling point where it will fit behind the plastic rear bumper. 
  • 13:3 – While holding the filling point in position, mark on the outside of the bumper where the centre of the filling point will be (this is guesswork but be as accurate as you can).
  • 13:4 – To check it’s central to the filling point, drill a small hole through the bumper on this mark. (Make sure you move the filling point out the way, so you don’t drill through it!)


Use a drill bit smaller than the centre drill bit of the holesaw. We used a 5mm metal drill bit.

  • 13:5 – Reposition the filling point behind the bumper.
  • 13:6 – Push (PUSH! DON’T DRILL!) the drill bit through the hole to see if it lines up with the centre of the filling point. If it does, good job! Move on to the next Step. If it doesn’t, drill another hole and try again.
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


Don’t worry about drilling a few holes in the bumper! The circular housing box, and therefore the filling point housing hole, will be 70mm. (Double-check yours is the same size!) So, as long as your drilled holes are within that diameter, you can make as many mistakes as you like! 

  • 13:7 – Using this centre hole as a guide, cut out a 70mm hole using a 70mm holesaw in a drill. 
  • 13:8 – Check the circular housing box fits by pushing it into the 70mm hole. It needs to be snug! But don’t push it all the way in as you won’t get it back out. 
  • 13:9 – Remove the circular housing box from the hole. This will be installed once the filling point has been fixed in position.

Stage 14: Bend The Mounting Bracket

  • 14:1 – With the mounting bracket, filling point and hose assembled, position the filling point where you want it to be secured.  
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


The mounting bracket must be fixed to the chassis metalwork of your van. The LPG pump hose and gun are surprisingly heavy, so they pull the filling point down when attached.

If the bracket is attached to something plastic or merely cable tied in place, it could damage the hose or fill point and cause a leak. 

  • 14:2 – Using a marker pen, mark where the bracket needs to be bent (so it’ll fix to the chassis). 
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


As mentioned, the bracket can be bent, but only with the right tools (please, don’t try and bend it using your hands or knee, you’ll be unsuccessful, in pain and embarrassed). 

  • 14:3 – Remove the filler hose from the filling point. 
  • 14:4 – Remove the filling point and the mounting plate from the mounting bracket.
  • 14:5 – Hold the bracket in a bench vice, so the bend mark sits about 10mm above the vice grip. Then tighten the vice to hold the bracket securely.  


To make bending easier, heat the bracket using a blow torch for a few seconds.

  • 14:6 – Using a hammer, tap the bracket about halfway between the vice grip and the top of the bracket. Check how it’s bending as you hammer it, ensuring it doesn’t bend anywhere other than the marked point of the exposed bracket.
  • 14:7 – If the bracket bends anywhere other than the marked point, it will need bending back into position by hammering the other way. It’s best to avoid this, so take your time.
  • 14:8 – Once the bracket is bent to the desired position, remove it from the vice.
  • 14:9 – Re-attach the filling point and mounting plate to the bracket
  • 14:10 – Loosely fit the filler hose onto the filling point.
  • 14:11 – Position the assembled bracket so the filling point is central and level inside the bumper hole. 
  • 14:12 – If it fits, good job! Move on to the next Step. Alternatively, if it doesn’t fit and the bracket needs altering, follow Stage 14:3 – 14:7 to bend it to the correct position.
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


It may take several attempts to get the bend in the correct position. Take your time to make sure the centre of the filling point is central to the bumper hole. The recessed filler housing doesn’t leave much wiggle room for the LPG pump gun, so if it’s not central, the gun may not fit.

Stage 15: Mounting Bracket Fixing Holes

The mounting bracket must now be fixed to the metalwork of your van. An LPG pump hose and gun are surprisingly heavy, so they will pull the filling point down when the pump is attached, if there’s no mounting bracket. 

The bracket must be securely attached to the metalwork (chassis) under your van. Otherwise, if it’s fastened to plastic or not securely attached, it could damage the hose or fill point and cause a leak. 

Fix the bracket to the van using nuts and bolts or heavy-duty self-driving screws.

Filler point bracket fixed to the van.
  • 15:1 – Position the mounting bracket, with the filling point and hose still attached, behind the bumper where it will be installed.
  • 15:2 – Mark on the bracket where the fixing holes need to go. Ensure the fixing holes will allow the fixings to go into the metalwork of the van.


We recommend installing 3 fixings for the bracket to ensure it’s attached securely.

  • 15:3 – Remove the filler hose from the filling point. Additionally, you may need to remove the filling point from the mounting bracket to secure it in the vice.
  • 15:4 – Put the bracket into the vice (or clamp it to a bench), so it’s secure and you have access to drill the fixing holes.
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


The fixing holes need to be slightly larger than the diameter of the fixing screws/bolts you use. For example, we used 4.8mm diameter screws, so we drilled 5mm holes in the bracket.

  • 15:5 – Using a drill with a metal drill bit (5mm in our case), drill your fixing holes in the bracket.


Use the slowest speed setting of the drill (typically speed 1). Also, use a cutting compound to reduce heat and swarf from the drill bit as you’re drilling.

  • 15:6 – Once all the holes are drilled, file any sharp bits of metal caused by drilling.

Stage 16: Fit The Mounting Bracket

  • 16:1 – Re-assemble the mounting bracket, filling point and fit the filler (90-degree) hose onto the filling point by hand.
  • 16:2 – Align the filler hose so the hose will fit around the bracket and under the van.
  • 16:3 – Tighten the nut using a 13mm spanner while holding the filling point in position using a pair of pipe grips/pliers. 
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


The 90-degree filler hose nut on our pipe wouldn’t fit in the correct position because it was touching the bracket. Therefore, we had to cut a notch into the bracket using an angle grinder.

  • 16:4 – Hold the bracket assembly into the correct position and mark the fixing holes onto the metalwork of the van.
  • 16:5 – If you’re bolting the bracket to the chassis (rather than using self-driving screws), you will need to drill holes through the chassis metalwork for the bolts to go through (the same size as the holes drilled in the bracket). Whereas, if you’re using self-driving screws, you don’t because they make their own holes as they’re drilled.
  • 16:6 – Screw/bolt the bracket to the chassis of the van. As you do, check the filling point is still central with the bumper hole. 
  • 16:7 – Secure the filling hose in place using the P-clips and fixing screws (self-driving metal screws) provided. Ensure the hose is fixed tight to the underside of the van and doesn’t sag down.

Stage 17: Filling Point Housing

The filling point cover is designed to protect the filling point from ingress of foreign objects like mud, dirt and grit, as these contaminants could get inside the tank when you’re filling it with gas. It also provides some protection from damage.

A square cover is supplied with the kit, but this is only suited to filler points installed underneath the van. The cover simply clicks onto the filler point mounting plate. However, we used a recessed circular filling point housing because the filler point is recessed into the bumper.

The circular filling point housing is in 2 parts; the housing and the filler cover. The housing fits into the bumper, and the filler cover twists onto the filler point.

Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


The housing is designed for the filling point to fix onto. However, there wasn’t enough depth for the housing and attached filling point because of our filling point position. Therefore, we reduced the depth (by cutting off the bottom), allowing the housing to sit in line with the bumper.

  • 17:1 – Measure the distance from the outer bumper to the filler point bracket. 
  • 17:2 – Mark this measurement onto the housing by measuring from the front lip towards the bottom, making sure you mark all the way around.
  • 17:3 – Using a hacksaw, cut along this mark and discard the bottom piece. 
  • 17:4 – Push this housing into the bumper hole until the front lip touches the bumper.
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


Because bumpers have a slight curve, the housing won’t sit perfectly flush with it. And that’s ok! You want the housing to align with the filling point, NOT the bumper. Aligning with the filling point ensures the LPG pump gun will fit. As long as the housing is in line with the bumper, it’ll look neat; don’t worry about it being perfect!

  • 17:5 –  Align the filler cover with the 2 nipples inside the filling point.
  • 17:6 – Push the cover onto the nipples (there is a spring inside, so you should feel some resistance).
  • 17:7 – While pushing, twist the cover clockwise. You’ll feel the cover lock into position.
  • 17:8 – To remove the cover, push it onto the filling point and twist it anticlockwise.

Stage 18: Regulator

The flexible stainless steel pigtail hose connects the campervan gas regulator to the tank. Although it’s flexible, avoid twisting it or making tight bends, as these cause damage to the hose.

You’re restricted on where you can install the regulator because of the pigtail hose length.  

The pigtail hose has a 22mm nut at one end to fit onto the tank and a 20mm nut at the other end to fit onto the regulator.

  • 18:1 – Attach the 22mm nut of the pigtail hose onto the tank’s outlet valve (tank service valve). Tighten by hand for now. 
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


Nuts usually follow the “righty tightey, lefty loosey” pattern. However, this nut has a left-hand thread meaning it’s “righty loosey, lefty tightey”!

  • 18:2 – Attach the 20mm nut of the pigtail hose onto the regulator’s 20mm thread. Also, tighten by hand for now.
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


A rubber washer inside these nuts ensures the joint is sealed. Be mindful that it doesn’t fall out or get damaged during the installation.

  • 18:3 – With the hose connected, you can see where you can install the regulator.


Be mindful of these things when positioning the regulator underneath your van:

  1. You need space to access the nuts once it’s installed.
  2. Position it above the tank, so gas droplets can’t run down through the pigtail hose.
  3. The breath hole needs to face downwards.
  4. The test point (white nut) needs to be easily accessible.
  5. Insulate/protect it from rain, mud and dirt.
  6. The pigtail hose must not have tight bends or any twisting.
  • 18:4 – With the pigtail hose still attached, find a suitable position to fix the regulator. 
  • 18:5 – If the hose needs to pass through any plastic panels, wires, pipes etc., then remove the hose from the regulator before you route it. Also, make sure it won’t get damaged by whatever it needs to pass through. 
  • 18:6 – Re-attach the hose to the regulator (if you removed it).
  • 18:7 – The regulator is mounted on a bracket with 2 fixing holes. Using the self-drilling screws provided in the kit, fix the regulator to the metal chassis of the van.
  • 18:8 – Tighten the 20mm pigtail hose nut onto the regulator using a 30mm spanner. Don’t tighten fully, as overtightening will damage the rubber washer inside the nut. Just tighten it enough, so it’s secure.
  • 18:9 – Tighten the 22mm pigtail hose nut at the tank using a 32mm spanner. Remember, this is a left-hand thread. Again, don’t tighten fully, as overtightening will damage the rubber washer inside the nut.
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


When you’re tightening the nuts, make sure the pigtail hose isn’t also twisting.

Stage 19: Fit The Sender Gauge Unit

The tank is fitted with a simple clock face, allowing you to check how much gas you have. However, you’ll need to crawl underneath your van to access the tank every time you check the gas level.

To overcome this, replace the clock face with a sender gauge unit that sends the reading to a separate readout gauge inside your van.

The gas level is measured by a magnet inside the tank. This then aligns with a magnet inside the gauge sender unit

When changing the senders, the magnets may become misaligned. But don’t fret! The magnets should realign by themselves because of the fluid motion inside the tank.

  • 19:1 – Remove the tank casing cover (if not already removed) by unscrewing the black knob.
  • 19:2 – Unscrew the two Philips screws holding the clock face to the tank. However, DO NOT unscrew any of the 4 alan bolts securing the brass plate to the heater, as this will open the tank.
  • 19:3 – Remove the clock face.
  • 19:4 – Fit the new gauge sender unit into the same recess and secure it in place using the two Philips screws (it will only fit one way round).
  • 19:5 – The green and black wires connected to the sender unit can be left inside the tank cover for now.

Stage 20: Fit The LED Readout Gauge

Our gas tank kit came with a 9 LED readout gauge to monitor how much gas is in the tank. 

The LED readout gauge can be installed anywhere in your camper but must be easily accessible to read the gas level. We have ours installed on the bulkhead above the sink.

An upcycled copper jam pot as an integrated sink in a campervan kitchen
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


If it’s on display, we would advise installing a switch to turn it on/off, so the LEDs aren’t on all the time. Simply switch it on to read the gas level.

The LED readout gauge is designed to be mounted onto a flat surface with the wiring routed through it. A sticky pad on the back of the gauge secures it in place.

  • 20:1 – Mark where you want the gauge to be installed, and then mark the location of the wiring hole. 
  • 20:2 – Drill a 10mm hole through the surface (wood, in our case) using an appropriate 10mm drill bit for the surface you’re drilling.
  • 20:3 – Remove the sticky pad protection from the LED readout gauge, pass the wires through the hole and stick it into position.

Stage 21: Sender Gauge Wiring

The sender gauge and the LED readout gauge are separately prewired in the factory. Therefore, you need additional wiring (not included in the kit) to connect the units together.

The sender gauge has 2x wires;

  • BLACK wire – Secured to the chassis (ground) of the vehicle. Ensure it has the same ground path as the LED readout gauge.
  • GREEN wire – Connects to the GREEN LED readout gauge wire.

The LED readout gauge has 3x wires;

  • RED wire – Connect to a 12 Volt power supply (e.g. 12 Volt fusebox), protected by a fuse. If you’re fitting an inline switch, it will connect to this wire.
  • BLACK wire – Secure to the chassis (ground) of the vehicle. 
  • GREEN wire – Connects to the GREEN sender gauge wire.

Each wire goes to a different location in the van. So, separate cables for each wire need to be installed.

Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


Chassis Ground

The chassis (metal underside of the van) is used as the ‘ground’ point for 12 Volt electrical wiring in vehicles.

When attaching a ground wire to the chassis, ensure the exposed wire is touching the exposed metal of the chassis. This will ensure a good ground connection.

Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


Cable Sizing

Installing the correct cable size is crucial so it can withstand the power demand of the LED readout. However, very little power is required to operate the LEDs (we measured the current at 0.03 Amps / 0.39 Watts).

The cable needs to be PVC sheathed and double insulated, and suitable for use with 12 Volt installations. We used a 0.20 mm² cable typically used for security alarm installations. However, we would advise not using a cable larger than 0.50mm² because it will be difficult to join onto the sender and readout gauge wiring.

  • 21:1 – Route the cables to their locations in the van, ensuring: 

1. If the cables pass through any holes, they have adequate protection from sharp edges. 

2. They’re not running alongside any cables carrying 230 Volts. This is standard practice when installing electrical wiring; we don’t need to go into depth about it here.

  • 21:2 – Connect the black (ground) wires to the chassis using eye crimps (also called lugs).
  • 21:3 – The red (power) and green (signal) cables require soldering, although you could use connector blocks if you’re not confident with a soldering iron. 

Learn how to solder with these super helpful videos.

  • 21:4 – Secure the wires in place using cable clips and cable ties where necessary. Make sure they’re secure and can’t be snagged or damaged. 

Stage 22: Test The Gauges

Make sure the gauges are working at this stage before you fill the tank with gas and start using it. That way, you can be sure the readouts work correctly.

The sender gauge on the tank sends current with a resistance value to the LED readout gauge. The level of the gas in the tank will change the resistance value sent to the readout gauge. Thus, determining which LED’s will illuminate (showing you how much gas is left in the tank).

  • 22:1 – Remove the sender gauge from the tank by undoing the 2 screws.
  • 22:2 – Turn on the power supply by inserting the fuse and ensure the switch (if installed) is on.
  • 22:3 – The LED readout gauge should mimic the reading shown on the sender gauge
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


The gauge is designed to show a slow readout, like a fuel tank readout. Otherwise, the readout would jump around as the fluid in the tank moves while you’re driving. 

  • 22:4 – Once the LEDs on the readout gauge remain steady, compare it to the readout dial on the sender gauge.
  • 22:5 – The sender gauge displays a dial with percentage values from 0-95%. However, if installed correctly at 105 degrees, the tank will only show 5-80% because the tank can only be filled to 80% capacity.
  • 22:6 – Put a small magnet on the back of the sender gauge and slowly move it around. As you do so, the dial on the sender gauge hand will move. 
  • 22:7 – Moving the magnet, set the dial on the sender gauge to 5% (empty). The LED readout gauge should display an “E” with a red LED. Remember to give the LED readout gauge time to show the reading.
  • 22:8 – Now, set the dial on the sender gauge to 40% (half-full). The LED readout gauge should display “1/2” with LEDs illuminated up to that mark. Again, give the LED readout gauge time to show the reading.
  • 22:9 – Finally, turn the dial on the sender gauge to 80% (full). The LED readout gauge should display “F”, with all LEDs illuminated. Give the LED readout gauge time to show the reading.
  • If the test is successful, congratulations! Re-attach the sender gauge and move onto Stage 23.
  • If the test wasn’t successful in any way, see the troubleshooting section below to resolve this or any other issue you may have with the gauges.

Stage 23: Regulator Protection

Give the regulator a protective cover to shield it from stone chips, mud and rain. Unfortunately, there isn’t anything specifically designed for this, so you need to make something yourself.

You can use any materials to create a cover. However, it must not be airtight or block the breather hole in any way.

We used a plastic 150x110x100mm adaptable box (typically used for electrical equipment).

  • 23:1 – Remove the lid from the adaptable box and discard.
  • 23:2 – Hold the box over the regulator.
  • 23:3 – Mark where the pigtail hose is and (future) outlet pipe will be. 
  • 23:4 – Remove the box and cut ‘slits’ in its side, using a hacksaw and a knife. These slits need to be bigger than the pipes.
  • 23:5 – Put the box over the regulator to ensure it fits and doesn’t make any pipes bend.
  • 23:6 – Fix the box to the metalwork of the van using self-driving screws or nuts and bolts. The fixings should be secure but removable to allow access to the regulator for future maintenance purposes. 

Stage 24: Stone Chip Protection

The final step in our LPG gas tank installation process is to apply another coat of stone chip protection paint.

It’s the same process as when you painted the tank before installing it; only this time, you’ll paint the brackets as well. But don’t paint the regulator as this could block the breather hole.

Gas tank installed and coated in stone chip paint.

Stage 25: Safety Check

At this stage, you’ve completed the installation of the tank and its components. However, the gas system isn’t connected to any appliances, so it can’t be used.

Before using the gas system, you must have it inspected and tested by an approved gas engineer who will issue a gas safety certificate.

You can have the safety inspection carried out at this stage. Still, a more efficient, cost-effective way is to have a gas safety inspection carried out once your gas system is complete, with all gas appliances installed.

Gas Safety

Once your underslung gas tank installation is complete and you have gas appliances in your van, there are 6 essential safety aspects you need to adhere to:

1. Safety Inspection

A safety inspection is not required if you intend to use your campervan for personal use only. However, the regulations do state the person installing the gas must be competent.

If you intend to rent out your camper, a gas safety inspection must be carried out on the gas installation and a landlords certificate issued. Additionally, this inspection must be carried out by a registered gas safe engineer qualified to work on leisure accomodation vehicles (campervans) and LPG systems.

Find a registered Gas Safe engineer

View the current campervan gas regulations

2. Carbon Monoxide Detector (CO)

Carbon monoxide detector attached to the ceiling of a campervan

Carbon monoxide is a colourless and odourless gas produced by a malfunctioning appliance. Furthermore, CO gas is poisonous; breathing it in can cause flu-like symptoms, cause you to pass out, and kill you.

This is why you must install a CO detector in your van.

3. LPG Warning Sticker

LPG vehicle sticker

Unlike vehicles used for work purposes, mobile homes (campervans) arent required to have an LPG warning sticker. However, it is highly recommended to have one because it notifies the emergency services of LPG being present in case your van is involved in a road accident. 

4. Drop Out Vents

Drop out vent

LPG is heavier than air, so it falls and forms “puddles” of gas inside your camper. Drop out vents are installed in the camper’s floor to allow the LPG “puddles” to escape.  

Along with the essential drop out vents, it’s a good idea to have other forms of ventilation to ensure any leaked or unburnt gas doesn’t build up. This ultimate campervan ventilation guide will give you some ideas.

5. Fire Protection

Fire Extinguisher

A fire extinguisher is a must-have item in a camper van, especially when gas is installed. A fire blanket and smoke detector are also recommended.

6. Travel Limitations

Most ferry companies and the Eurotunnel require you to turn off your gas at the bottle whilst onboard. Furthermore, the Eurotunnel has restrictions on how much gas you allowed to carry onboard. 

2.5.6 The maximum permitted volume and quantity of flammable gas cylinders and tanks per Vehicle is:
For portable containers (cylinders/bottles, etc): Maximum of 47kg per cylinder and no more than 50kg per Vehicle if more than 1 container;
For fixed containers (tanks): Maximum of 47kg per container and no more than 50kg per Vehicle if more than 1 container;
Fixed containers must be no more than 80% full. The capacity of the container will be checked by Eurotunnel staff.

Regulation quoted from the Eurotunnel website The Carriage of Dangerous and Hazardous Goods and Hazardous Articles page.


This section is here to help if you’ve encountered problems with the gas tank sender gauge and LED readout gauge.

Hopefully, by following this troubleshooting guide with detailed flowcharts, you’ll be up and running again in no time. 


A word of caution: If you’re not confident to carry out electrical testing, we advise you seek the help of an electrician. 

These are the 3 common problems you may encounter:

#1 – No LED’s showing on the LED readout gauge.

#2 – The LED readout gauge is on but isn’t reflecting the sender gauge dial value.

#3 – The LED’s on the readout gauge are flickering or going on/off sporadically.

Jump to the troubleshooting flowcharts to solve these issues.

Before carrying out any electrical testing, you must ensure the multimeter is functioning correctly. 

There are many different makes, models and designs of multimeters. Whether you have an all singing and all dancing model or a DIY compact model, they all work in the same way. However, their design, display and readings may differ slightly. 

This is a very basic overview, if you’re unsure about how to use your multimeter, consult the manual.

Proving the continuity function of the multimeter

  • 1: – Set the multimeter to the continuity (Ohms – Ώ) function.
  • 2: – Hold the metal ends of the probes together. 
  • 3: – The display will show a resistance reading (in our case 000.1ohms). This is the resistance of the multimeter leads. Make a note of this as you may need it later.
Electric multimeter set to measure resistance (ohms) with the probes touching and the display showing an ohms value of 0.1.
  • 4: – Now, separate the probes. The display will show an ‘open-circuit’ reading (in our case, 0.L Mohms).
Electric multimeter set to measure resistance (ohms) with the probes not touching and the display showing open circuit
  • 5: – This proves the multimeter is functioning correctly. 

Proving the voltage function of the multimeter

  • 1: – Set your multimeter to the voltage (V) setting.
  • 2: – Make sure the voltage is set to DC and not AC.
  • 3: – The decimal point needs to be set to 0.000 v or 00.00 v because we’re testing a 12 Volt system (0.012 v or 00.12 v).
Electric multimeter set to measure DC voltage.
  • 4: – Test for voltage on a known 12 volt supply like your leisure or starter battery/batteries. 
  • 5: – Put the red probe onto the positive (+) terminal and the black probe onto the negative (-) terminal.
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


Don’t worry if you get the probes the wrong way round. The multimeter will still show a voltage, but will display an arrow symbol that means ‘cross polarity’. 

  • 6: – The multimeter will display the voltage of the battery. This will be 12 or 24 volts depending on the electrical system voltage you have installed (We have a 12 Volt system). 
Multimeter showing voltage reading of battery at 12.80 volts.
Created by potrace 1.16, written by Peter Selinger 2001-2019


The amount of charge in your battery/batteries will affect this test voltage. 

A healthy 12 volt battery will have a voltage of approx. 12.6 volts and a healthy 24 volt battery will have a voltage of approx. 28.7 volts.

  • 7: – This proves the multimeter is functioning as it should.

Troubleshooting Flowcharts

These flowcharts concentrate on the gas tank electrical wiring only. If you find the issue is with other parts of your electrical installation, further investigation will be required that isn’t covered in this guide.

We advise you seek the help of an electrician if you get stuck and contact your supplier if the issue points to a faulty gauge.

We can only help to advise on what the issue may be, so use these flowcharts as a guide.

1# – No LED’s showing on the LED readout gauge?

2# – The LED readout gauge is on but isn’t reflecting the level on the sender gauge?

3# – The LED’s on the readout gauge are flickering or going on/off sporadically?

The LED's on the readout gauge are flickering or going on/off sporadically flowchart


Hurrah! Just look at what you’ve accomplished!

By following our build guide, you’ve methodically worked your way through 25 stages and have successfully installed an LPG underslung gas tank on your camper.

Is there anything you wish we’d included? Let us know in the comments or via e-mail as it may benefit others taking up the gas tank installation challenge.

The next step is installing your gas appliances and becoming one step closer to reaching your campervan dream. Maybe your thinking of installing a heater to your camper? If so, here are two posts that could help you:

Everything you need to know about the Propex HS2211 heater.

How to install a Propex heater to this underslung gas tank.


  • Reply
    Steve Smith
    27/09/2023 at 6:52 am

    I love that you said that every step of the propane gas installation should be proper and planned to ensure the best function. A few nights ago, my brother informed me he was planning to have a propane supplier consultation that could offer a cost-effective propane solution for their home heating usage. He asked if I had any idea how much it cost. I appreciate this valuable propane guide article for the best planning approach. I’ll tell him it will be much better if we consult a trusted propane supply company as they can provide details about their installation services.

  • Reply
    FREE Safety Guide to the Campervan Gas Regulations Uk
    06/12/2021 at 5:36 pm

    […] Autogas 2000 Ltd underslung gas tank manufacturer instructions. See our post on how to install it. […]

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