In March 2024, we travelled from Spain to Morocco by ferry, going from Algeciras to Tanger Med. Here’s everything we wish we’d known in advance.
We’ve laid out everything we know into five simple steps. Although, you can skip step 4 if you’ve already got van insurance for Morocco.
Table of Contents:
1. Before The Ferry
Buying Tickets
Although there are many places online where you can buy ferry tickets in advance, we went in person to the infamous Carlos. (Calle Fragata, 11379 Los Barrios, Cádiz)
Parking outside Carlos’ office is limited, especially for longer vans/motorhomes, so we parked a 5-minute walk away at Lidl. There are plenty of double spaces here, making it easy to park.
We were the only customers in the office, and booking a ticket was quick and easy. It cost the same as booking online and we also received a complimentary bottle of wine and a cake.
There was even a little desk for Moo to colour at, and she was also given some treats.
We got an open return (with Trasmediterranea), leaving the following day. It cost us €300 for two adults, a one-year-old and a campervan (they didn’t ask for the van size), and we can return at any time within a year.
The ticket is a piece of A4 paper and is for the outbound and return journey. So, keep it safe, but also take photos of it in case you lose the hard copy!
There were several ferry times for the outward and return journeys. On the outward journey, you must be at the port at least one hour before departure, but on the return trip, you must be there two hours before departure. As we’d bought an “open ticket”, we could board any outward or return ferry.
We also bought a Moroccan SIM (with 7.5GB of data for €10) from Carlos, so we’d have data as soon as we got to Morocco.
NOTE – Carlos told us there were scammers at the port, and we didn’t need to pay ANYONE for ANYTHING.
The Night Before The Ferry
We spent the night in a free carpark close to Carlos’ office. There were no facilities, but there was a playpark and a few cafes just a short walk down the river. Find on Park 4 Night.
The journey to the port took 20 minutes. We chose the 11 a.m. crossing and left the carpark at 9 a.m. We followed Carlos’s directions to the port.
2. Ferry Crossing
Check In
We arrived at the ferry port at 9.20
Although the ferry was scheduled to depart at 11, it didn’t leave until about 12.15. We were waiting on the tarmac until nearly noon, having been moved around the port several times.
Scammers At The Port
When we bought the tickets, Carlos had told us not to give anyone money at the port because of scammers. Sure enough, when we were in the port queue, a guy approached us with the police information cards and said we needed them on board.
NOTE: Police forms are required, but fill them out on the ferry.
He said something about a change because of Ramadan, which seemed legit. But after he’d done these cards, he asked for payment. We didn’t give him anything.
Aboard the ferry, we realised his “police cards” were similar copies to the official cards but missing some information. His were also flimsy paper, whereas they were proper cards on the ferry.
We’ve since met a couple who said an official-looking guy in a uniform tried the same thing but tried to charge €10 per card (them and 2 kids). Only when he tried to frog-march them to a cash machine did they realise it was a scam. When they confronted him, he ran away.
There may be many people with many legitimate-sounding reasons to give the money. DON’T!
On Board
Although everything looked a little tired, the ferry was clean and comfortable.
There were:
Super comfy reclining seats.
A café with additional seating.
A small duty-free and snack shop.
Western toilets (not squatties).
Free showers
An outside deck, although there weren’t many places to sit.
Things to note
Onboard Police Check
While aboard, you need to fill out a small card and take it, along with your passport, to a police desk, which is just opposite the duty-free.
They check it all and stamp your passport.
No Dogs In The Passenger Area
A lady parked by us seemed surprised to learn her dogs had to stay in her motorhome during the crossing or be put in the kennel cages next to the parked cars.
Eating And Drinking Restrictions
There are signs saying no food or drink when sitting in the main seating area. You can buy something from the café or shop, but you need to sit in the café seating.
Cash only. Neither the café nor the duty-free accepts cards. Either euros or dirhams.
The crossing time is about an hour and a half.
3. The Other Side
Immediately after driving off the ferry at Tanger Med, a man standing on the tarmac checked our passports.
We kept following the exit signs, seemingly for ages, before reaching a police checkpoint.
When we reached some activity, we were directed to a vehicle x-ray. Our V5 was taken and then returned after the X-ray.
Note: An English couple were filming but were made to delete the footage. A guy from Gibraltar who regularly makes the trip said any photos of police or military (people or equipment) is a no-no. He said he always turns off his dash cam now, as the blinking light attracts unwanted attention.
After the x-ray, we were pulled into a holding area, where severe officials took our passports and V5. The van (inside and out) was checked over, first by human eyes, then by sniffer dogs’ noses.
All around us were men ordered to empty their vans completely. There were great piles on the tarmac of all the stuff they had removed from their vans.
When they returned our V5, we were given a small, printed card that was a condensed version of the information on the V5. We had to present this card as we exited and at the insurance office. Also, once you’re travelling in Morocco, there are frequent police checkpoints. Most of the time, you’ll be waved through, but if you are stopped, they’ll want to see this card.
Note—while in this holding area, several police officials came to the van to ask for documents or to check this or that in/on the van. It was quite intense, and half the time, we didn’t know what was happening. We assume they do it deliberately to observe how you behave under pressure.
4. Moroccan Van Insurance
After showing the small printed card to the guy working the barrier, we were released into Morocco. Straight away, there’s a cash machine and a row of offices where you can buy car insurance, SIM cards, or exchange money.
There’s ample parking here, with bays big enough for large campers and seating areas.
We went to CAT Insurance, and they wanted to see the small card (with the V5 information) we’d received in the previous area.
Our van isn’t registered as a campervan on the V5 and is rated at 4 tonnes, so we were worried insurance would be expensive, as it is technically an HGV.
But third party cover, for 3 months was €186 (2010 MAD).
5. First Day In Morocco
We wanted to get to a campsite past Tangier when we arrived in Morocco.
We could either take a toll road or non-toll, but the non-toll went straight through Tangier. We paid 50MAD (€5) on the A5 to Briyech, which took an hour, and we arrived at the campsite at 4pm.
Within ten minutes of being on the road, we reached a petrol station, and there were plenty of places to buy a gas bottle or food supplies along the way.
We stayed at Tahadart Campsite, which cost 80 MAD/€8 per night
Although it needs some TLC and the facilities aren’t the cleanest, the pitches are big, and the place is tidy. It’s actually a good introduction to Moroccan campsites.
Travelling With A Toddler
- Get an early ferry, if possible.
If there are delays (either before or after the ferry crossing), it won’t be as stressful.
If it’s hot, the wait in the van (either before or after the ferry) won’t be as intense.
It will still take most of the day, but you should be settled at your campsite in time for dinner and bedtime.
- Keep activities in the cab, and take them onboard, too.
Take loads of stuff to keep your little one entertained. There’s nothing to do onboard, and the wait on either side must feel endless for a toddler.
- Make sure to have a healthy stash of snacks and water.
Have lots of snacks and hydration in your van’s cab and with you on the ferry.
Further Reading | Our Journey Through Spain
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